Crafts. Radial arm saw not starting
- Thread starter dekroth
- Start date
Did you try pressing the red reset button on the motor?
Check the power, breaker, cord for cut?
All that ok, then blow out motor with high pressure air to remove sawdust...
Check the power, breaker, cord for cut?
All that ok, then blow out motor with high pressure air to remove sawdust...
thx. I was cross cutting wood & the blade bound up & motor stopped No burning/smell. I installed new reset button & new capacitor, have 120/240 power. all cords ok. I blew out dust. Don't know what more to try. THX. DAVE
I just wanted to verify that there wasn't anything mechanical blocking the motor from spinning.
Some motors have a mechanical centrifugal switch on the end of the motor that can wear out or break, you would have to disassemble the motor to see if it has this.
Some good advice here. My bet is a bad centrifugal switch in the back end of the motor and/or a bad starting capacitor, but also make certain that the on/off switch isn't full of saw dust and works properly. The flexible part of the power cable from the saw to the motor carriage can break internally and give you periods when the motor will start and then die as you move the carriage, or not start at all. The frequent movement of this part of the power cable increases the likely hood that wires have broken inside this part of the power cable where the rest of the power cable rarely moves. Turning the power switch on and having nothing this suspected part of the power cable can sometimes be found by moving the carriage back and forth with the power on, to see if the motor starts or attempts to start in any position of the carriage movement.
Anything, including the electric outlet and panel circuit can be suspect when dealing with issues like this. I like to start somewhere in the middle and see if there is power there, if I do, then I check toward the motor, if no power there I check from there toward the circuit breaker or fuse in the electric panel. Fuses do develop resistance over their life, or can also blow out with a sudden power surge. Breakers can do the same, but it's less likely. Always remove the fuse and test it for continuity with a multi tester. If it's good it will have very low resistance. If bad, it will show have very high or no resistance. If more than one fuse in the circuit, check both of them.
Charley
Anything, including the electric outlet and panel circuit can be suspect when dealing with issues like this. I like to start somewhere in the middle and see if there is power there, if I do, then I check toward the motor, if no power there I check from there toward the circuit breaker or fuse in the electric panel. Fuses do develop resistance over their life, or can also blow out with a sudden power surge. Breakers can do the same, but it's less likely. Always remove the fuse and test it for continuity with a multi tester. If it's good it will have very low resistance. If bad, it will show have very high or no resistance. If more than one fuse in the circuit, check both of them.
Charley
I'm betting on a blown capacitor. Have to take the motor to an electric motor repair shop. I had this problem with a sander. Same symptomsl.
I’d try spinning the shaft (no blade) by hand, then while the shaft is still turning, turn on the power.
If the shaft spins up, confirms it’s something in the start sequence (cap or centrifugal switch) vs the run sequence.
-Mark
If the motor hummed and ran slowly, that is a definite indication that the start winding is not switching out. Either the governor sleeve is stuck on the shaft or the contacts are welded closed.
Take off the end bell where the power cord is and have a look or show us a picture.
Take off the end bell where the power cord is and have a look or show us a picture.
Also, both windings energized for more than a second or two would have tripped the overload (red button) which you indicated.
