Cosmoline or whatever it is ---- it is a mess

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Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
How do I remove that grease that is commonly called "cosmoline" from a new power tool witout eating my skin off or burning the lining of my lungs out?

MEK sounds like some BAD stuff. :tongue2:I read about something that is supposed to be kind to the user called SOLSAFE 245 but it is not a locally available product.

I use Greased Lighting mixed 1:1 with water for others things but I am not sure using this is good --- water and cast iron is not a good thing.

Maybe I'll try it full strength.

Thoughts??:help:
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
How about the real heavy stuff with just paper towels, then follow up with a deaper cleaning with WD-40? (Worked for me in the past.)

Wayne
 

Guy in Paradise

New User
Guy Belleman
General wipe off then Kerosene then paste wax

For the machines I received last month, I got the bulk of the grease off with paper towels. Then you want to clean the rest off with kerosene. Kerosene is an oily fuel and as the cosmoline is being removed some of the oil coats the pores and surface of the metal. Kerosene isn't as flammable as many other fuels and solvents. Ensure you are in a ventilated area.

Once the surface is clean, do not wait to put on some protective coating. When clean and dry, I put on a layer of paste wax, let it dry and buff. I then put on a coat of SlipIt, let it dry and wipe off, although SlipIt will remain a little filmy. I recoat every month or two, sometimes cleaning the surface again with kerosene, sometimes just recoating with wax and SlipIt.

I have heard of some folks using one of the orange degreasing cleaners. I have used mineral spirits when kerosene was not handy, but really ensure you are in a ventilated area. Never use gasoline, or some of the very flammable fuels. Of course, it is wise to stay well clear of any electrical operations while cleaning, although I am usually not dousing my cleaning rag with enough cleaner to fill the air with a combustible mixture.

Depending on the tool, like a planer, it can be a tedious business to clean off all the cosmoline from the cutterhead and blades.

Good Luck.
 

timf67

New User
Tim
Re: General wipe off then Kerosene then paste wax

Depending on the tool, like a planer, it can be a tedious business to clean off all the cosmoline from the cutterhead and blades.

Heed these words, I found out the hard way that jointer blades can cut through a shop rag in a heartbeat...:eusa_doh:
 
M

McRabbet

Re: General wipe off then Kerosene then paste wax

I used a Citrus-based Degreaser similar to this from Grizzly to remove the cosmoline from my power tools that I bought from them and it worked very well. I used terry cloth rags versus paper towels and yes, I used great caution around the blades. Once the gunk was removed, I gave all of the bare metal (Cast Iron) parts a thin spray of WD-40 and wiped it off -- in four years, I've never had any signs of rust.
 

Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
It is all cleaned. WD-40 and blue shop towels works great. Much easier than I expected.

Thanks for all the input.
 

Dragon

New User
David
Ask anyone who's ever been in the military or bought an old mil. surplus rifle. Kerosene may work but the time tested tried and true guaranteed method/material is good old gasoline. Yep, nasty stuff and has the potential to light up your life :kamahlituin a New York second but it works. YMMV
 

SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
Ask anyone who's ever been in the military or bought an old mil. surplus rifle. Kerosene may work but the time tested tried and true guaranteed method/material is good old gasoline. Yep, nasty stuff and has the potential to light up your life :kamahlituin a New York second but it works. YMMV
Strip the rifle (M1) and put in boiling water. ( Old Gunny showed us that one.)
 

Guy in Paradise

New User
Guy Belleman
Must be an Army method :)

"Dragon Re: Cosmoline or whatever it is ---- it is a mess
Ask anyone who's ever been in the military or bought an old mil. surplus rifle. Kerosene may work but the time tested tried and true guaranteed method/material is good old gasoline. Yep, nasty stuff and has the potential to light up your life :kamahlituin a New York second but it works. YMMV"

Having come from 3 generations of Navy and Marine Corps, and myself being retired from the USMC, from WW1 to the Gulf War, kerosene was always the choice for removing cosmoline. My father even bought some old WWII springfield rifles and a Korean M1 coated in the stuff and we cleaned them with kerosene. My ancestors said to only use gasoline if that was the only choice, and be careful. They even had some stories, I now forget, of smokers, that had not been so careful. During my own career of 20 years, we used aviation gas, since I was a pilot, which is just kerosene with some additives. Many of my weapons were not hand carried, but airplane carried, but they still showed up coated in cosmoline.

I guess I will have to ask my eldest son, now an Army E-7, Special Forces, how they clean new weapons.

I guess we all got the weapons clean and ready for use.
 

Dragon

New User
David
I've used kero. from time to time as well as WD40 and numerous other grease-cutting agents but always found plain old gasoline to give me the best results. Yeah, ya gotta be careful and there's always the decision of what to do with it afterwards as far as disposal. The hottest water you can get is a good follow up with liberal use of Dawn dish detergent and then a through wipe down and drying and application of 3 in 1 oil or gun oil to protect from rust. Methods and materials used vary widely but I think we all can agree that cosmoline is some sticky and hard to remove but it does do what it was it was designed for. Few products can live up to that claim these days.:gar-Bi
 

Len

New User
Len
Got curious about 'cosmoline' and found this on Wiki:

"Cosmoline" is the trade name for a generic class of rust preventatives, conforming to MIL-C-11796C Class 3, that are a brown colored wax-like mass; have a slight fluorescence; and have a petroleum-like odor and taste. Chemically, cosmoline is a homogeneous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It is always brown in color, and can differ in viscosity and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 130-150 °F (45–52 °C) and has a flashpoint of 365 °F (185 °C).

Further curious what the MIL-Spec was, I tracked down:

MIL-C-11796C
Title: Corrosion Preventive Compound, Petrolatum, Hot Application
Scope: This specification covers a suitably formulated petrolatum-base corrosion preventive compound.
Class: 3 - Soft Film Compound

Strange as it sounds, the solvent specified to test how easy this stuff is to remove is "dry cleaning solvent". A felt pad with dry cleaning solvent on it is supposed to completely remove the cosmoline in 8 wipes.

Learn something new every day, but I think I'll stick to kerosene and WD-40.

Len
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
We called it Monkey Snot in the Army and used lighter fluid (Naptha) for small parts and Diesel or Jet A (Helicopter) fuel and a putty knife for bigger stuff. Now I use Mineral Spirits on a paper towel. The Chinese version of Cosmoline is easier to get off then the old WWII 'Merican version.
 

dkeller_nc

New User
David
Gentlemen - Couple of comments from a guy with a chemistry background about cosmoline, deisel fuel, kerosene, gasoline, laquer thinner and citrus-strip solvents. Len's already posted what cosmoline is - generally a high-boiling, heavy fraction produced in the crude oil distillation process (that's cleaned up by further refining and testing to ensure conformance to specifications).

Because it is an apolar, non-protic material, a good solvent for it needs similar properties. That's why deisel, kero, mineral spirits, laquer thinner, naptha, gasoline and similar non-protic, apolar solvents work best. Citrus strip works by two mechanisms - it is somewhat hydrophobic, and it also can modify certain heavy hydrocarbon chains that contain double bonds to form more water-soluble compounds.

Anyway, as far as health risk, the afore-mentioned hydrocarbon solvents go from low to high in this order: mineral spirits, kerosene, deisel fuel, (naptha and laquer thinner - about equal risk), and way up there, gasoline. Gasoline contains substantial amounts of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons, as well as benzene. Both of the PNAs and benzene are potent carcinogens. One could argue about the placement of naptha/laquer thinner and deisel in this list. As a relatively unrefined crude mixture, diesel can contain a fair amount of PNAs. Laquer thinner and Naptha don't, but they have very low boiling point components, so you're likely to be more exposed to those compounds as they vaporize in the air. The health implications of long-chain, low-boiling alkanes are up for debate. Certainly they are less hazardous than PNAs, benzene, and certain sulfur compounds found in low-grade fuels.

I noted this because gasoline is often used as a solvent, and is extremely dangerous. One of its properties that makes it so hazardous is that it has a very, very wide range between its lower explosion limit and its high explosion limit. These are the concentrations in air that will propogate an explosion - too low, and there's not enough fuel. Too high, and there's not enough oxygen.

But there's a special property of components of gasoline that make a fire so potentially dangerous. Diesel, mineral spirits, and kerosene do not have really low-boiling components that will readily evaporate and form a vapor cloud. That means that if you soak some wood with these and throw a match on it, a fire will start, but it will not have much in the way of flash power. In fact, you can drop a match in a bucket of diesel and the match will go out (please don't try this!).

However, gasoline, naptha, laquer thinner and to some extent white gasoline (camping fuel) have lots of components that have a flash point right about room temperature or lower. That means that they will rapidly evaporate and form a vapor cloud, and they are so readily flammable that an ignition source will cause not just a fire, but an explosive detonation. Roughly speaking, 1/2 cup of gasoline in vapor from has the equivalent explosive power of a stick of dynamite. And some of the early naval FAEs (Fuel-Air Explosives) used naptha and compounds similar to gasoline as the fuel source. Fuel-Air Explosives were developed to substantially increase the potential of an air-delivered weapon. They are sometimes called "the poor man's nuke".

In other words, puh-leeze do not use gasoline as a solvent. You may get away with it 100 times, but the 101st might be way too exciting.
 

Threejs

New User
David
Take the rifle stock, wrap it in paper towels and put it in a black plastic bag. Leave the bag (with the stock) out in the hot afternoon sun til all the cosmoline leeches out.


Oh wait. Wrong forum.... :icon_scra
 
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