Contractor saw alignment

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Man with many vises
User
On a too hot day recently I re-aligned my 20+ year old table saw. I haven't seen PALS mentioned recently and several new woodworkers have joined so I thought it was worth a mention.

Aligning a contractor table saw requires moving the trunnion assembly (which is bolted underneath the top) in small precise increments. An aftermarket add-on (aka cursing reducer) called PALS is an essential help for this task. I was able to align my blade plane to the miter slot to within .001 in short order. On my Delta saw, I could reach the two adjusting screws from the top through the throat plate opening.
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I have no connection with In-line Industries other than being an enthusiastic user.

 
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Man with many vises
User
Over time, the slots in my zero clearance inserts have widened quite a bit, and the re-alignment moved the blade left thus making the slots even wider.

I restored them by gluing in some oak filler strips and then re-cutting the slots.
image.jpeg
 

Brian Patterson

Bstrom
Senior User
I'm looking at a Sprunger table saw and these parts would be useful - have contacted a supplier to see if they will fit on it.
 

tijmt

Jared
User
I second PALS! I have them on the contractor saw that I am now selling and they made adjustments so much easier!

I also talked to the guy over at In-Line industries (the maker of the PALS) and he suggested replacing the pulleys and belts as well. They worked well for me and if anyone has a contractor saw with a bit too much vibration, you might want to give new pulleys a try.
 

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Man with many vises
User
I restored them by gluing in some oak filler strips and then re-cutting the slots.
View attachment 194688
To make the starter kerf in the bottom of the throat plates, I had an 8.5" blade but it only cut a 7/64" kerf. A folded sticky note added enough wobble to widen the kerf to give clearance for a standard 1/8" kerf blade.
image.jpeg
 

junquecol

Bruce
User
On a too hot day recently I re-aligned my 20+ year old table saw. I haven't seen PALS mentioned recently and several new woodworkers have joined so I thought it was worth a mention.

Aligning a contractor table saw requires moving the trunnion assembly (which is bolted underneath the top) in small precise increments. An aftermarket add-on (aka cursing reducer) called PALS is an essential help for this task. I was able to align my blade plane to the miter slot to within .001 in short order. On my Delta saw, I could reach the two adjusting screws from the top through the throat plate opening.
View attachment 194687

I have no connection with In-line Industries other than being an enthusiastic user.

I've got a set of PALS on both of my Delta Model 10's. First set was bought, then using some scrap aluminum angle, made a set for the other saw. One saw has turned pulleys from In-Line, while the other has Browning cast iron pulleys from Agrisupply. Link belts on both. In-Line also makes the DUBBY, which is now sold thru PeachTree Woodworking. Jerry Cole invented both PALS, and the DUBBY. He used to do the Woodworking Shows, demoing the DUBBY. As for the Dubby, I have only one regret. I waited too long before I bought one.
 

Charlie Buchanan

Charlie
Corporate Member
Thanks for this thread. It came at the right time. I’d been putting off aligning my old Delta contractor saw because it was such a nuisance getting the trunnions to the right place and then having it move slightly when I tightened the bolts. I ordered a set of PALS and installed them today. Very easy to get the alignment set to less than .001 inch difference on the dial gauge from front to back. They have a good video on their website.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Curious as to whether you’ve ver had to readjust.

I’ve never changed the factory setting on my Jet and I recently checked it was spot on after 20 years of use.
 

23tony

Tony
Senior User
To make the starter kerf in the bottom of the throat plates, I had an 8.5" blade but it only cut a 7/64" kerf. A folded sticky note added enough wobble to widen the kerf to give clearance for a standard 1/8" kerf blade.
Still have a lot to learn: why would you want to ADD wobble?

Also, curious where you get the zero-clearance inserts. I have a Delta contractor saw and I can find inserts that ALMOST fit, but they're not quite long enough. Can't find any that fit exactly.
 

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Man with many vises
User
Still have a lot to learn: why would you want to ADD wobble?

Also, curious where you get the zero-clearance inserts. I have a Delta contractor saw and I can find inserts that ALMOST fit, but they're not quite long enough. Can't find any that fit exactly.
I make my own insert from project leftovers.

1. Make a pattern routing template that fits the opening snugly.
2. Bandsaw blanks a bit oversize.
3. Trim to size with a router and flush trim bit (or pattern bit).
4. Drill 13/64“ holes for adjusting screws.
5. Tap holes 1/4-20 part way through (serves as a thread lock), install set screws, and adjust to be flush.
6. Most saw blades will not lower below the insert, so you need to make a starter slot with a smaller blade. The wobble was to make the starter slot kerf 1/8” using a 7/64” kerf blade that I had.
7. Cut the kerf with your 10” blade.
8. Label which blade the insert pairs with.

If this isn’t clear enough, ask again.

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1AE29C2D-52F7-4BFB-8041-52A38C6C2BDA.jpeg
 
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Man with many vises
User
It may be worthwhile to check the blade at something other then 90 degrees to the table as well (I need to do this with my table saw)
Yes, and look at the first photo in this thread and you’ll see the shims that I used to correct 45 degree tilt misalignment.
 

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