Compression Shrinkage

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cubicdissection

New User
Eric
I've read several posts lately about wood movement and thought I would post this up in case anyone didn't know about it. It's near and dear to my heart because I work to stupidly tight tolerances when I make my puzzles, and my work gets shipped all over the world (i.e. different climates).

Compression shrinkage occurs when wood tries to expand but is constrained by its surroundings (i.e. locked into a puzzle or a drawer inside a frame). When that happens the wood absorbs moisture but cannot expand. The cells then take on an oval shape, and when the wood dries, it is permanently smaller then before it tried to expand. So, if you make something a little too tight when it's dry and you find it has locked up in humid weather, best thing to do is store it somewhere for a few dry/humid cycles. It might surprise you by working itself out via compression shrinkage!

As far as movement in general, I keep a close eye on humidity in my shop and adjust my work accordingly. If it's super humid I'll make the puzzle as tight as possible while still being assemblable. If it's dry I'll make sure key joints or places where pieces will interact have a few extra thousandths to move around. I recommend putting a decent hygrometer in your shop and getting into the habit of checking it if you do any precision work. I bought mine at a cigar shop for $20 and calibrated it using a ziploc bag and some damp salt in a soda pop cap.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
I've read several posts lately about wood movement and thought I would post this up in case anyone didn't know about it. It's near and dear to my heart because I work to stupidly tight tolerances when I make my puzzles, and my work gets shipped all over the world (i.e. different climates).

Compression shrinkage occurs when wood tries to expand but is constrained by its surroundings (i.e. locked into a puzzle or a drawer inside a frame). When that happens the wood absorbs moisture but cannot expand. The cells then take on an oval shape, and when the wood dries, it is permanently smaller then before it tried to expand. So, if you make something a little too tight when it's dry and you find it has locked up in humid weather, best thing to do is store it somewhere for a few dry/humid cycles. It might surprise you by working itself out via compression shrinkage!

As far as movement in general, I keep a close eye on humidity in my shop and adjust my work accordingly. If it's super humid I'll make the puzzle as tight as possible while still being assemblable. If it's dry I'll make sure key joints or places where pieces will interact have a few extra thousandths to move around. I recommend putting a decent hygrometer in your shop and getting into the habit of checking it if you do any precision work. I bought mine at a cigar shop for $20 and calibrated it using a ziploc bag and some damp salt in a soda pop cap.
Thanks for the info Eric, but I have a request, could you further explain the calibration procedure? I have two electronic hygrometers, one in the house and one slated to go into the shop and would like to check their accuracy. Thanks :wsmile:
 

Mark Fogleman

Mark
Corporate Member
Eric,
Sorry, I may be missing the point because I've never seen a wooden puzzle other than large piece toddler puzzles and I'm very green as far as scrolling, but aren't you using 1/8" plywood for your puzzles? I'm under the impression that any expansion/contraction is offset by the opposing grain. The whole puzzle can swell a small amount in each direction but if you add up all the cuts in the vertical and horizontal planes it seems to me that the amount you're removing with the blade kerf should offset any swelling.
Example: If your puzzle is 18" X 18" and has 20 pieces (18 interior cuts) in each dimension and you use a .010 thick 2/0 skip tooth blade you lose .01 X 18 = .18" (a little less than 3/16") if you don't sand the edges of the pieces. Does this wiggle room left by the kerf not offset any swelling or contracting you would normally see with a puzzle?

I'm scratching my pointy head on this:icon_scra
Thanks!
Mark
 
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cubicdissection

cubicdissection

New User
Eric
Eric,
Sorry, I may be missing the point because I've never seen a wooden puzzle other than large piece toddler puzzles and I'm very green as far as scrolling, but aren't you using 1/8" plywood for your puzzles?

Hi Mark,

Naw, I make three dimensional stuff. Like this:

scorpius_6x_l.jpg


cic333_done_l.JPG


cic333_partial_l.JPG
 

Mark Fogleman

Mark
Corporate Member
Eric,
Those are awesome! I guess I assumed you were talking about jigsaw puzzles. Know what they say about assuming?:embaresse
 
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