Compressed Air line Kit

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T

toolferone

It looks interesting. What size is the air line? Are extra fittings and blocks avaiable? If not then you would need to plan your runs carefully. I have been reading recently about this style fitting. I sure looks easy to install. Just make sure you cut the pipe clean and straight. Let us know how it goes if you get it.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
The problem with "soft" (not rigid) lines is it's impossible to keep sags and low spots out of the lines. This where moisture will collect. Just when you least expect it, you get a "slug" of water all over your project. But because the lines aren't steel, it won't be rusty water. I'm a fan of copper, 1/2" size. It will supply more air than my compressor does.
 

mlzettl

Matt
Corporate Member
I have the kit from RapidAir, which is very similar, and perhaps identical to the HF kit. I read the thread on the HF kit on Garage Journal, and it would seem that they are one in the same, but I can't be sure.

In any case, my experience has been very positive. I also have a friend who has the same kit, and he is happy with it.

I can run a 95CFM Dynabrade randon orbital sander all day without difficulty. I spray finishes without difficulty. The system is easy to put together, and I have had absolutely no problem with leaks. All of the fittings worked well and were easy to assemble.

While I agree that because of the flexible tubing there is a tendency to sag, but I solved that problem by adding zip ties with screw anchoring holes, so sagging is not an issue.

My longest run is about 30 ft., but I have a 50 foot hose reel, and do not see any problems with pressure drop. I do have a very large compressor, however.

Hope this helps.

Matt
 

Badabing

New User
Joe
<note: long read but worth it if you want to know about the Garage Air Kit from Harbor Freight, item #66747>

I bought this kit from HF and just finished installing a single run along the shop ceiling to just over my lathe. Took me about 3 hours from start to finish (not including 2 trips to Lowes for extra fittings, screws, hose clamps, etc). Here are some of my thoughts in case it helps anyone:

- The kit is NOT complete (unless you adhere strictly to how the simplest installation is shown). I needed two more terminations (I used pipe nipples with brass caps), three different types of screws, hose clamps, teflon tape (the one for gas, it is yellow, not white), and coiled hoses with female connectors on the ends.

- I had lots of trouble with some of the threaded connections. One of the ball valves must have had defective threads because it would not go in. I ended up having to use a tap and die to fix it up (after I demolished the threads on both pieces trying to "make" it work). I think these parts are just not machined well so use caution when fitting them.

- There is just not enough teflon coating on any of the threads (and some don't have it at all). The white teflon tape is what I had on hand and used first. Once I tested the system (before installation, thank God), I found that most of them leaked. I switched to the yellow teflon tape (for gas, it is much thicker) and that did the trick.

- You MUST cut the ends of the tubing as straight and square as possible. Then push the tubing into the connector all the way, with as much force as you can, and then pull the collar out a bit to lock it in place, if it isn't already.

- Plan out your installation and before you screw anything down, test the system for leaks. The way I did this was to install all the connectors to the manifold and outlets, then use some short pieces of tube to link them together. I connected it all to my compressor and fired it up. Using a little soapy water, I brushed every connection to check for bubbles. Wherever I found a leak I tightened it up or changed the teflon tape until it was right.

- The joints where the tubing meets the quick couplers are the most sensitive. You cannot tighten these or otherwise fix them if they leak, you have to remove the tube, recut it, then insert it again and pray. Make sure you practice this a few times when testing to get it right because once you start cutting tubing to length you may not have enough to play with if it's wrong.

- I had no problems with slack in the line. I also was not very fussy about it being straight. I was going to use a chalk line across the ceiling but it was sooo hot and I was by myself so I just decided to eyeball it. Not perfect but perfectly acceptable!

- Once the installation was done I hooked up the compressor and one of the outlets was leaking loudly. I think it was the tube/coupling joint. I turned off the compressor, got the ladder under the outlet, and went up there to check. Looked good. Turned on the compressor, went back up the ladder with the soapy water and there was no leak. Go figure. I'm not touching it again!

All in all I think this was a good purchase. It was on sale for $79.99 (reg. price 99.99) and I used a 20% coupon at HF so it was even less. Even with all the extras I had to buy afterwards, it was much less than the RapidAir brand kit of the same contents. I still plan to tap into the line I ran with a T-connector and put the other outlet in the ceiling over my bench. Hopefully that will go well too, but it was just too hot today to do any more...

Hope this info is helpful!
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
Thanks for the update, Joe. I've been considering this kit as well and wondered how the quality compared to the RapidAir kit, which is ~2x the price.

I want to move my compressor out to the garage (where there would be a small coil hose and a hose reel for filling car/bike tires, balls, etc. Then I'll need a line to the workshop with outlets at a few handy places in the shop. I will probably only need 100' of hose, but I think I'll need three kits worth of fittings. Even then, not a bad price.

Chris
 

Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
I have the RapidAir version and it was easy to install and have not had any trouble with it. I made two runs with mine on opposite sides of the shop.

One tip: A day or so before installation unroll the pipe so it will relax the curls out.
 

Woodman2k

Greg Bender
Corporate Member
Well,there is not much I can add after Joe's post as he touched on almost all the problems you run into.I would like to add that at work(IR) we use the push in type connections and using a small dab of white vasoline on the end of the tube helps get it seated against the o-ring and I also give it a little twist as it is going in to get it seated.As far as the teflon tape goes ,avoid it,use Loctite 542 medium duty Thread sealant and you will not have leaks.We use that on everything up to 200 psi , 3/4" fittings and it works great.
I have not seen the kit mentioned but I personally like hard pipe,aluminum or copper,and ran a hard manifold down the middle of my shop ceiling and then tapped off of it with push in type fittings using all 3/8 sizes with 542 at all the joints and it will sit for weeks with out losing a pound of air.Hope that helps,
Greg
 
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