Completely new to woodworking - how strong will it be?

Volksdad

New User
Glen
Thank you! You've all definitely given me a lot to think about, I really appreciate all the advice. Using all plywood for the main structure is looking very tempting, with the strength of construction, if I go the route of the skill saw.



I am thinking 2x4s may be the way to go - I had read a passing comment on the aquarium forums that 1x's would be enough for such a small tank hence using them for the design, but I don't want to be worrying about strength.


I am getting very tempted by a skill saw, I hadn't realised quite how versatile they really are! I'm sure I could find plenty of future projects to use it for as well...
I do have a manual mitre saw with mitre box so that should help making square cuts on the dimensional lumber, I believe? The plywood sheeting would probably be the biggest challenge to cut with my hand tools. Thanks for the tip about leaving the plywood long and sanding down!


Thanks! The top heaviness is partly why I made the design not too tall, and longer than the tank, in hopes of having a wider base. I always think the little stands that fit tanks exactly look so precarious!
I'm not sure where the 230lb figure is coming from? My tank holds 14 gallons according to the manufacturer, which should be about 120lbs.
Remember that most people will lean on a tank- intentionally or not and you should build for lateral as well as compressive strength. Anyone visiting you will go look at the tank, and any kids will definitely lean on it. My six year old is fascinated by my 75 gallon tank. He’s constantly climbing and leaning on it.
Everyone here has given really good advice IMHO. I’d only mention that in my smaller tanks (10-30 gallons) I always anchor the entire thing to the wall, somewhere near the top of the stand. I try and catch a couple of wall studs. I usually use a 3/4 board to space the tank away from the wall. Small tanks don’t have enough mass to be safe from tipping over.
Hope this helps. Good luck and post pics of your project!
 

Charles Lent

Charley
Corporate Member
That stand will hold a 50 gallon tank up, if you glue it together with yellow carpenter's water proof glue like Titebond II, as well as nails and/or screws, and it isn't even big enough on top for that. I built one similar for my son's 30 gallon tank much like it, but used a mitered frame from 2 X 4 pine sitting on top to make it look like heavy colonial pine furniture. A solid back and side panels would make it even stronger. When I finished building it, he was worried about it's strength, so I climbed my 250 lbs up on top and did a dance on it for him. It didn't even creak as I danced on it. That was 26 years ago, and it is still in use today. Quit worrying, and build it.

Charley
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
Kat I sent you a PM. I build commercial stands in Raleigh. Be glad to spend sometime and get you started
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
I’d only mention that in my smaller tanks (10-30 gallons) I always anchor the entire thing to the wall, somewhere near the top of the stand. I try and catch a couple of wall studs. I usually use a 3/4 board to space the tank away from the wall. Small tanks don’t have enough mass to be safe from tipping over.

Quick story - had 3 kids and barely ever visited the Emergency room - except when my son was on rollerblades (inside, just put them on to go outside) and leaned on the cabinet holding an aquarium. It was not anchored, and basically crashed over onto him. Only damage was a significant gash in his arm - embedded with gravel from the tank. Maybe 3 or two layers of stitches needed, but thankfully 'only a flesh wound'.

ANCHOR an aquarium stand to the wall (please).
 

seasaltwalnut

New User
Kat
I want to say thanks again for everyone's help! I've reworked my design, hopefully taking into account all the advice, and I'd really appreciate any feedback on the update to see if I missed something!

It now features L-shaped legs, using 1x3 (pink) and 1x2 (blue) poplar glued + pocket screwed together. I'm also thinking about using the dowel method for attachment (drilling into both pieces, and using a dowel glued between like a biscuit joint) since I think that'll help keep things square and lined up, and maybe add a bit extra strength?
The pale pink at the front of the frame is a 3/4" square dowel, not structural but just to hide the plywood edges and frame the shelves :)

The 1/4" plywood skin is on the interior now, and the back is solid instead of having a cutout. The solid bottom shelf is 1/2" plywood - I am hoping to be able to use 2 pieces of 1/4" laminated together for this since it's a more economical use of the plywood sheeting, unless this would be significantly weaker? I also plan to put a small piece of 1/4" at each end for the bottom shelf to rest on, as shown in the bottom view.
The plywood skin I plan to glue and screw on, but I'm not sure the best method to attach the bottom to the legs. The side pieces butt against the frame at the front and back, and go all the way to the ground, and the back wedges between them but stops at the shelf.

I'll screw through the top pink frame into 2 studs to make sure it's anchored to the wall. The risk of children coming across the tank is very low but it's still a good safety measure, so thanks for those who suggested it :)

Thanks very much for taking the time to help me with this!
 

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smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
I'm curious, it's hard to tell from the images.
In your Sketchup model did you use the actual dimensions of 1 x 2 and 1 x 3 lumber? ( 3/4 x 1 1/2, 3/4 x 2 1/2)
Or did you use 1" x 2" and 1" x 3".

I ask because they look large compared to the 5" shelf width.
It could just be me.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
BTW your laminated floor will be plenty strong but can be a PITA.
Make sure you have a way to keep it flat during the glue up or you'll have a very stiff curved sheet of wood.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
The design is fine, but how are you going to join the pieces? Typically, mortise and tenons would be a good choice, but with limited tools & experience, I wouldn’t recommend it. Dowels would be a good option.

Racking is a major consideration especially being too heavy. A back and sides will do the job, as well a face frame on the front. If this is an open stand you’ll need to use some type of corner brace like a triangular block of wood (not the L brackets from the hardware store).
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Quick story - had 3 kids and barely ever visited the Emergency room - except when my son was on rollerblades (inside, just put them on to go outside) and leaned on the cabinet holding an aquarium. It was not anchored, and basically crashed over onto him. Only damage was a significant gash in his arm - embedded with gravel from the tank. Maybe 3 or two layers of stitches needed, but thankfully 'only a flesh wound'.

ANCHOR an aquarium stand to the wall (please).
Glad the gash was his only injury. Even a well maintained aquarium is a Petri dish of bacteria...........
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Glad the gash was his only injury. Even a well maintained aquarium is a Petri dish of bacteria...........
Yes the ER folks were 'fishing about' cleaning the wound for a while, then went deeper and found more gravel...(with statements like 'Oh wow, there's more!'). They too were concerned about infection, but thankfully none occurred. This was more than a a few years ago, but memorable.
 

seasaltwalnut

New User
Kat
I'm curious, it's hard to tell from the images.
In your Sketchup model did you use the actual dimensions of 1 x 2 and 1 x 3 lumber? ( 3/4 x 1 1/2, 3/4 x 2 1/2)
Or did you use 1" x 2" and 1" x 3".

I ask because they look large compared to the 5" shelf width.
It could just be me.

BTW your laminated floor will be plenty strong but can be a PITA.
Make sure you have a way to keep it flat during the glue up or you'll have a very stiff curved sheet of wood.

I used the actual dimensions! The weird number for the height of the frame actually comes from the true size for 2'x4' plywood, to minimize the number of cuts needed :) Thanks for checking, that would've been a big issue if I'd used the nominal size!

Thanks for the tip about the laminated floor - I have a big piece of ugly 3/4" plywood lurking in the garage, would putting that on top with some extra weights work to keep it flat?

The design is fine, but how are you going to join the pieces? Typically, mortise and tenons would be a good choice, but with limited tools & experience, I wouldn’t recommend it. Dowels would be a good option.

Racking is a major consideration especially being too heavy. A back and sides will do the job, as well a face frame on the front. If this is an open stand you’ll need to use some type of corner brace like a triangular block of wood (not the L brackets from the hardware store).
Another member suggested pocket screws to hold it together, and I plan to use a waterproof wood glue in all the joints as well.
For racking I will be skinning the frame with 1/4" plywood on both sides and the back, as well as a rigid bottom shelf that spans the full dimensions - hopefully this will be enough.

Yes the ER folks were 'fishing about' cleaning the wound for a while, then went deeper and found more gravel...(with statements like 'Oh wow, there's more!'). They too were concerned about infection, but thankfully none occurred. This was more than a a few years ago, but memorable.
Glad your son was alright! Infection is definitely something to worry about, I try not to put my hands in if I even have a small cut.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
If you're laminating the cabinet bottom panel, just be sure that it is sandwiched between two flat sufaces. If one is the floor, try to make sure it's flat.
The 3/4 ply would be good for distributing the weight of whatever you are "clamping" with.
w/o it you'll get good contact wherever you put the weight and less elsewhere. The result will not be what you're after.
 

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