Chimney Crown or Cap

[zdorsch]

We moved into our house a little over a year ago and recently we started getting some leaking around the chimney. The chimney is chase is tiled over inside but is still open from the roof. It’s all masonry.

I called the roofing company they came over checked it out and determined it was the chimney crown. They quoted cleaning the exterior and then elastomeric sealing it.

I then called a chimney place to see what they recommended. They inspected and gave several recommendations. They sell and install a metal cap instead of redoing the crown, which seems to more common in central SC.

The cap is much more expensive ($1500+) than the bags of concrete and wire mesh for me to rebuild a new crown. Has anyone redone their own crown? Any thoughts on metal (stainless) versus concrete crown?

I’m still deciding if we should return it to working order, but at the very least I need to address the leaking. Cheapest fire option is a minimum of $7k.

 

[J_Graham]

We re-did the crown on our house when we bought it 2 years ago. That being said my FIL is a Mason by trade so he did the technical things and I just did the heavy work.
If you are able to do the work yourself it's obviously the cost effective solution but will need to be re-done after several years. I think my question for a chimney company would be the expected lifespan of the metal cap?

 

[John Jimenez]

Leaks around the chimney? As in you see leaking on the sheathing around the chimney or leaking on the inside of the chimney? Can you send some pics? How old is the house? If you see leaking around the chimney on the sheathing then it’s prob flashing issue….if the leaking is on inside of the chimney then prob is the crown. If the crown is bad then good chance you may have issues in other places in the chimney. Did the firebox and entire chimney get inspected by a professional or two? Form my own personal experience we had two fireplaces in a 1970 house. We had both inspected and were told we needed steel inserts in both with new metal crowns. That company wanted 10k. We got a second company in to inspect and they found that only one chimney needed a steel insert but both crowns were switched to steel and the total job was only 3k.

 

[zdorsch]

Leaks around the chimney? As in you see leaking on the sheathing around the chimney or leaking on the inside of the chimney? Can you send some pics? How old is the house? If you see leaking around the chimney on the sheathing then it’s prob flashing issue….if the leaking is on inside of the chimney then prob is the crown. If the crown is bad then good chance you may have issues in other places in the chimney. Did the firebox and entire chimney get inspected by a professional or two?

Yes leaks around the chimney and not at the sheathing. I first climbed into the attic while it was raining and the bricks were soaked and the sheathing seemed mainly dry apart from wicking (only wet where wood touched brick). I later climbed into the attic while it was raining after I tarped the crown and no water (I intentionally it left it off of the flashing). The cardboard is for a template if I have the cap made out of metal.



The house is 62 years old. Single story brick ranch with a 4-5/12 pitch roof. I have to drag myself, no crawling, to get to the chimney from the attic door.

The fireplace is sealed from the inside with tile and there has definitely been a leak based on grout staining.

Roofing company quoted about $1k less to fix the crown issues and did not include the stainless cover. The cover the fireplace company recommended is a chase cover with cap. Price seems about right from what I priced a few years ago for my last house.

I’m leaning toward redoing the crown and repointing as needed. That row of brick that sticks out can’t help, so I plan to make the crown overhang by 1.5” and slope th mortar away from the brick in that joint.

I’m really trying to figure out why no one wants to redo a crown in mortar. The fireplace is very visible from the front of the house, so asthetics matter. With metal the chase skirt has to be at least 5”, plus 12” for screen and the another 2-3” for the cap.

 

[Oka]

This was flashed wrong on the roof to chimney detail. It looks like they used a typical 6x6 roof to wall flashing to flash the chimney. This should be a 6"x12"min (12" laying on the roof deck) with a counter flash kerfed in then caulked with a low modulus polyurethane caulking or butyl type caulking. Actually per typical flashing recommendations- the chimney should be 24" from the Hip/valley. That said, this is what you got and can be flashed to work. You just need someone who actually understands how to do it correctly. The work there looks nice but is not an effective/correct method for this area. If I can find my SMCNA book I ll post the the detail that would be more correct.

 

[zdorsch]

This was flashed wrong on the roof to chimney detail. It looks like they used a typical 6x6 roof to wall flashing to flash the chimney. This should be a 6"x12"min (12" laying on the roof deck) with a counter flash kerfed in then caulked with a low modulus polyurethane caulking or butyl type caulking. Actually per typical flashing recommendations- the chimney should be 24" from the Hip/valley. That said, this is what you got and can be flashed to work. You just need someone who actually understands how to do it correctly. The work there looks nice but is not an effective/correct method for this area. If I can find my SMCNA book I ll post the the detail that would be more correct.

You’re confirming what I’ve been reading online. I’ve noticed that the recommendation/standard practice is to have one piece sloped down instead of step flashing along the chimney (they used NP1 for the caulking). The roofing company did slope the other side, but not set into a kerf.



The chimney peak intersection was an issue from day one. The original roof peak on that side is actually about 8” from the chimney. The roofing company extended the roof up to meet the chimney. For what I spent I would have hoped they did it correctly, but I suspect I’m on the hook to fix the flashing.

 

[mquan01]

we used Owens Chimney in Indian Trail. they installed a stainless cap for about 500 bucks

 

[zdorsch]

we used Owens Chimney in Indian Trail. they installed a stainless cap for about 500 bucks

Was it just the cap or something like this?



I had a chase cover made 2-3 years ago in 16 gauge stainless for my old house with a prefab unit and plywood chimney for $500 (chimney places wanted $1200+ for 24 gauge). The old house chimney wasn’t visible from the street and about 3 stories up. I’m expecting the above chase/crown cover with cap pictured to be about double the cost.

 

[wolfsburged]

This is pertinent to an ongoing issue I've been having with my chimney. However I think my issue is more the exterior flashing. I've had the roof replaced and flashing done at the same time 10 years ago due to this issue, and it just still hasn't ever been right. Had the cap redone, and had the mortar repointed. Then someone painted a coating on the whole thing. Still water getting in. Not trying to hijack, but if anyone knows someone reputable near Cary, NC that can be recommended, I'm looking for an expert who can assess and repair rather than just pointing to something else that they didn't do...

 

[mquan01]

Was it just the cap or something like this?

View attachment 216706

I had a chase cover made 2-3 years ago in 16 gauge stainless for my old house with a prefab unit and plywood chimney for $500 (chimney places wanted $1200+ for 24 gauge). The old house chimney wasn’t visible from the street and about 3 stories up. I’m expecting the above chase/crown cover with cap pictured to be about double the cost.

Its very similar to this picture

 

[Westpacx3]

I had a friend weld me a cap on the side. He only charged for the materials since we are friends.
Point is the materials were about 75.00 and he works out of his back yard. There is always a welder working in his back yard like all the wood workers here. Maybe someone knows one in your area. I'm in the shelby area if you are close. Mine was a few years ago and I don't know what he or they would charge but doubt as high as the number you got. Not for side work with no tax and business fees. Maybe I'm all wet too but it's worth another look..

 

[Westpacx3]

This is pertinent to an ongoing issue I've been having with my chimney. However I think my issue is more the exterior flashing. I've had the roof replaced and flashing done at the same time 10 years ago due to this issue, and it just still hasn't ever been right. Had the cap redone, and had the mortar repointed. Then someone painted a coating on the whole thing. Still water getting in. Not trying to hijack, but if anyone knows someone reputable near Cary, NC that can be recommended, I'm looking for an expert who can assess and repair rather than just pointing to something else that they didn't do...

Mine leaked for a year after a new roof. They came back twice and eventually I found the leak a foot over from the chimney where they needed a bead of caulk. Pretty sad for a reputable company to miss something that basic. There are not many places next to a chimney to leak..

 

[Oka]

This is a basic fact about flashing- on a building albeit a wall or roof.... The flashing should be the primary diversion and should prevent water infiltrating 100% as long as it is not an extreme driving rain. The caulking is the back up (belt & suspenders) which is there to assure when there are extreme conditions the water is prevented from finding the small to tiny openings that a driving wind pushed rain might infiltrate.

Caulking should never be used as a primary method to prevent rain getting in. Yet, most think that is how it is done. The pix in the OP shows exactly that. The only thing preventing rain from getting in on top of that flashing is the caulking ......... this is not competent work. This is homeowner special level work that some contractor did to cut costs.

 

[zdorsch]

Caulking should never be used as a primary method to prevent rain getting in. Yet, most think that is how it is done. The pix in the OP shows exactly that. The only thing preventing rain from getting in on top of that flashing is the caulking ......... this is not competent work. This is homeowner special level work that some contractor did to cut costs.

Based on what I’ve been reading I agree. Part of the problem I’ve noticed is that this is the standard practice in my area. I’ve been looking at chimney details since I first had the leak and I have yet to see one without step flashing.

This work was also performed by one of the better roofing companies around here.

 

[zdorsch]

I had a friend weld me a cap on the side. He only charged for the materials since we are friends.
Point is the materials were about 75.00 and he works out of his back yard. There is always a welder working in his back yard like all the wood workers here. Maybe someone knows one in your area. I'm in the shelby area if you are close. Mine was a few years ago and I don't know what he or they would charge but doubt as high as the number you got. Not for side work with no tax and business fees. Maybe I'm all wet too but it's worth another look..

Thanks Jim!

I’m going to check a local place here (Columbia, SC) and see what they’ll charge with my specs and pictures. Finding someone with a metal brake is also part of the issue.

Although I’m still leaning toward a concrete cap.

 

[Westpacx3]

Thanks Jim!

I’m going to check a local place here (Columbia, SC) and see what they’ll charge with my specs and pictures. Finding someone with a metal brake is also part of the issue.

Although I’m still leaning toward a concrete cap.

Could also check a local high school welding shop. They have tools. Mone was made with no brake needed. I'll see about getting a photo. It's pretty basic and heavier than what I could buy.