Cherry panels

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Steve W

New User
Steve
I'm building a new vanity for our powder room downstairs, and I'm making it out of cherry - to match the cabinets in the nearby kitchen. It's going to be somewhat Shaker/Craftsman style, so the doors will have their cope & stick cuts with a T & G router bit set that will leave a 1/4" groove for the panel.

The two doors are going to need small panels, as will the upper false drawer front. I'm talking about panels that will be about 10" x 20" (2) and 3" x 24". The easy way would be to buy 1/4" cherry plywood, but that's also a lot of money to spend for a 4 x 8 sheet to use a fourth of it. Who knows when I'd ever use the rest of the sheet?

So, I've been thinking of using panels made from solid cherry. I'm thinking of re-sawing some 5/4 x 5" wide boards I have to about about 1/2 - 5/8" thick, jointing the edges, gluing them to get the width and then thicknessing them to 1/4"

What's the consensus on making panels this thin of solid wood? Am I going to get a lot of cupping?

Thanks -

Steve
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
make them thicker. 1/2" would be good. then make them raised panels with the raised side inside the cabinet.[flat side out] 1/4" panels would likely split.
 

Semmons23

New User
Steve
I would agree with FredP - make them 1/2" think even if you just rabbet the inside.

99% sure you can get smaller sizes of plywood at Capital City Lumber in Raleigh if you'd rather try that.
 
T

toolferone

make them thicker. 1/2" would be good. then make them raised panels with the raised side inside the cabinet.[flat side out] 1/4" panels would likely split.

I'm with Fred and if not mistaken it is more historically correct.
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
make them thicker. 1/2" would be good. then make them raised panels with the raised side inside the cabinet.[flat side out] 1/4" panels would likely split.

Definitely agree w/ Fred. In fact, I'm using this exact method on an entertainment center I'm working on right now. 1/2" thick w/ a rabbet on the inside, and a 1/4" tongue in the groove of the rail and stiles. This was a classic method used by the Shakers for flat panels.

Bill
 

ChrisB

New User
Chris
I've made this style of door with both 1/4" panels and 1/2" panels and never had a problem with either as long as the panel can float. My personal preference is to use 1/2" panels because the door feels more substantial.

Chris
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
make them thicker. 1/2" would be good. then make them raised panels with the raised side inside the cabinet.[flat side out] 1/4" panels would likely split.

I've never heard this before. Why would 1/4" be more likely to split than 1/2"? I'm assuming this is not a strength issue, since a floating panel is not under stress. I've built several pieces using 1/4" panels and none of them have split. Did I just get lucky?
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I've had a few split. The thinner you go the weaker the piece. if supported in the groove the movement is contained and if it is floating it may not buckle provided it doesn't move more than the space it is allowed. also as stated above the doors will feel a little wimpy with thin panels. 1/2" gives a more solid feel. If you want to use 1/4" why not save some what if's and use plywood? I personally feel 1/4" is too thin for solid wood. It isn't real easy to fix a split panel once the door is glued together so why take the chance? I view at as dancing with the devil.....:) YMMV.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
If you want to go the plywood route, I have enough 1/4" MDF core Cherry plywood for your needs that I got from the folks in Gibsonville. Bought it for the Cherry Wine Cabinet that I built and have probably over half the 4x8 sheet left. Send me a PM if interested.

- Ken.
 
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