Chainsaw Bar Oil

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I have been chainsaw milling a few logs lately and am running into a problem with the chains crudding up with resin/residue to the point they won't cut, and the sticky mess actually causes drag on the chain in the bar groove. The chains are still fairly sharp after cleaning, so the main loss of cutting power is the crud. This problem is occurring in both red oak and wild black cherry.

I am using Stihl bar oil. Did not have this problem until recently when I bought a new jug. No change in the label so unsure if they changed their formula. The stuff is not too hard to remove (have had best results with Simple Green and Greased Lightening), except for needing a toothbrush to get the crud from under the tooth hook, but really slows down the operation.

I do not know if the exhaust heat (which gets pretty intense at the base of the bar when milling) is cooking the stuff during the long mill cut, but it doesn't seem to occur nearly as bad with straight cross-cutting.

Has anyone else experienced a problem with the Stihl oil, or chainsaw milling, or are there better brands out there? The oil is doing its job on preventing wear on the bar and chain, but would like to eliminate the sticky build-up.

Thanks for any insight/help.

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks for the link, Jeff.

Haven't seen the Stihl Bio-Plus oil (their vegetable based) around here. This was the old orange jug. Just had problems with the last two jugs recently purchased (one is mine and the other is the neighbor's). The previous jug I bought last year didn't seem to give the same problems.

Wonder if regular grocery store canola oil would work. Its cheaper than the Stihl regular bar oil.

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charlie jones

New User
Charlie
I use used hydraulic oil when milling. You need a thinner oil than bar oil because ripping creates a lot more heat than cross cutting.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks Charlie. Heat definitely seems to be a factor in this. Have you noticed any shortened chain/bar life? (Although I have got to admit I don't know how you would compare the two with cross-cutting vs milling).

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charlie jones

New User
Charlie
I am sure it's a little shorter. I just keep it clean and resharpen frequently. I use the Oregon 72 s chain which is like regular crosscut but the teeth are filed at 10 degrees.
 

stave

New User
stave
Stay away from the canola oil unless you want to clean your saw at the end of each day. Although it does work it does have a tendency to build up on the fins and other areas.

Stave
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
+/- $0.02 worth. Never used a chain saw mill or seen one being used. :dontknow:

Heat build up is more likely due to the sideways orientation of the saw in the mill during ripping so a good oil flow is needed to dissipate the heat. The oiler setting may need to be opened up a bit for a higher flow rate of standard bar oil or use a lower viscosity oil (maybe 5W30, 10W30, or unused/fresh transmission fluid?).

What size saw, bar, etc. are you using? How large are the logs that you're milling? Pine, poplar, or white oak and hickory?

Good information at Granberg: Use a ripping chain and a supplemental oiler. :icon_cheers

http://granberg.com/content/most-frequently-asked-questions
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Charlie: I am also using the Oregon 72 ten degree chain on my saw. The neighbor's saw is a stock 30 degree Stihl RSC chain. Had same problem with both.

Stave: Thanks for the heads up. May still try it but now will be prepared for the mess.

Jeff: Getting plenty of oil, maybe too much. Problem occurred with both the neighbor's Stihl 660 with 32" bar, and my Stihl 310 with 25" bar. Had actually started to rig up a drip oiler for the 660 until we saw it wasn't needed. The logs range from 14" to 25" diameter, and are red oak and wild cherry. The oak was felled in April when we had all the tornadoes. The cherry was dropped a week ago after Irene, and is much worse on the crudding than the oak. The previous oak and sweet gum I milled had been on the ground longer, but also was using bar oil purchased a year ago. They gave the expected resin on the chains, but not enough to interfere with cutting and chip removal. This last batch, particularly the cherry, clogs the links and teeth, which really reduces the chip removal, which then makes the problem worse. I am finished milling the oak but still have a couple of short cherry logs to do.

My other neighbor has another jug of the year or older Stihl oil, and is letting me try that to see if its the trees or the oil. Will let you know how it all goes altho it will probably be later in the week when I get back to milling. Rain for the next two days and then have an 80' pine tree to get out of a neighbors yard.

Thanks for the inputs.

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taandctran

New User
Thanh Tran
You may want to check out this site.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/
The people on there are kind of chainsaw addicts, so take everything they say to heart.... I think some of the members may sleep with their chainsaws.
But there is some good info on chainsaws, and chainsaw milling!!!
Someone on there usually know everything about oil, and gas, and epa regulations also!
use Caution though, they aren't as friendly as ncww
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Mark,

Thinking, thinking, and thinking about your problem based upon my training as a chemist. Basically: What is this observation/result telling me? How do I test it to get it go my way?

Not a problem with your bar oil. I think that the resin build-up is resulting from the freshly cut cherry that's only about a week off of the stump. Much less problem with the oak that's been down and drying all summer, but it is also species specific in this case.

Cherry has a lot of sticky sap that I've seen oozing out of healthy standing trees. Oil and water don't mix so therein lies your problem. The heat generated during ripping is creating steam so you're basically cooking the sap-kinda like making maple syrup that's not soluble in the bar oil. Just a gummy mess! :BangHead:

I'd bet a dime to a dollar that if you ripped a drier cherry log side by side you wouldn't have this problem. :eusa_thin

Jeff Mills used Dreft dishwashing detergent in his Wood-Mizer to keep the blade clean from sap build-up, but that won't work on a chain saw mill.

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment/OptionsAccessories.aspx
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Mark,

Thinking, thinking, and thinking about your problem based upon my training as a chemist. Basically: What is this observation/result telling me? How do I test it to get it go my way?

Not a problem with your bar oil. I think that the resin build-up is resulting from the freshly cut cherry that's only about a week off of the stump. Much less problem with the oak that's been down and drying all summer, but it is also species specific in this case.

...

I'd bet a dime to a dollar that if you ripped a drier cherry log side by side you wouldn't have this problem. :eusa_thin

...

Your hypothesis proved to be right on target.

Chain after 30 linear feet of sawing on wet cherry (to the point I had to stop)


New chain after 5 ft



and 8 month old dried cherry after 30 feet
.

Problem was the wet sap and heat, not the oil. This was same chain and same oil I had been using.

Spot on assessment Jeff :icon_thum

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Yes. I am using an Oregon 72 chain filed at 15 degree fleam angle and 10 degree rake angle, giving about a 10 degree angle of attack.

When we were cutting the red oak, we were using the neighbors stronger/longer saw (Stihl 660 with 32" bar), and all he has are stock Stihl 30 degree angle chains. The build up with the oak was slower to build up, but did reach about the same amount.

Both projects are done now, so any more experimenting will be after I acquire some more logs. Need to open up more drying space first.

I am glad to find the bar oil is the same as ever, and also did find a local source for a vegetable-based bar oil. However, at $25/gal vs $13/gal, I doubt I will be using it.
I did notice where Stihl recommends completely filling the oil reservoir for storage if using a biological chain/bar lubricant. I would surmise this is to keep out as much oxygen as possible to prevent mold build up, or possible it turning rancid.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

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