I know it is hard to visualize applications for the carving I teach in the beginning class so I decided to post a picture to help show an example.
The table is made from white pine. I sanded the top before doing any layout work. It is easier to do the bulk of the work beforehand than to try to sand around the design or re-carve areas you hit. It does dull the carving tools a little but it is easier to touch up sharpen than to touch up carving sometimes.
I used real maple leaves to layout the design and then drew the branches in place. I literally traced the real leaves. Using a 1/8" router bit cutting to a depth of 1/8" I free hand routed around the entire design. I shaded in the areas in between the leaves that I was going to route out, it is easy to miss places or route places out that should have been left so I mark them. The leaves and branches were then carved. Using small brushes the stain was applied.
The border was done using a router and guide with the same bit cutting to the same depth. Of course there was some touch up sanding to be done to clean up the staining. The leaves and branches were lightly sanded with 220 to accentuate the carving marks and to give more life to the carving. You cannot do this technique with a Minwax stain due to the heavy oil content. I used a pigmented wiping stain from Mohawk.
The table was finished with water white lacquer.
This design could have been outlined with a v tool just as well. I used a router to increase the outline size and the staining, basically for more drama. The carving of the leaves etc. was done just like those in the class.
Hope this helps to see the possibilities.
Mark
www.stromcarver.com
The table is made from white pine. I sanded the top before doing any layout work. It is easier to do the bulk of the work beforehand than to try to sand around the design or re-carve areas you hit. It does dull the carving tools a little but it is easier to touch up sharpen than to touch up carving sometimes.
I used real maple leaves to layout the design and then drew the branches in place. I literally traced the real leaves. Using a 1/8" router bit cutting to a depth of 1/8" I free hand routed around the entire design. I shaded in the areas in between the leaves that I was going to route out, it is easy to miss places or route places out that should have been left so I mark them. The leaves and branches were then carved. Using small brushes the stain was applied.
The border was done using a router and guide with the same bit cutting to the same depth. Of course there was some touch up sanding to be done to clean up the staining. The leaves and branches were lightly sanded with 220 to accentuate the carving marks and to give more life to the carving. You cannot do this technique with a Minwax stain due to the heavy oil content. I used a pigmented wiping stain from Mohawk.
The table was finished with water white lacquer.
This design could have been outlined with a v tool just as well. I used a router to increase the outline size and the staining, basically for more drama. The carving of the leaves etc. was done just like those in the class.
Hope this helps to see the possibilities.
Mark
www.stromcarver.com