To all,
I'm going to start slow with my journey into woodworking (work is finally slowing down <or I am>) and one of the first things I'd like to build is of course the garage workshop. So, cabinet construction is something I'd like to focus on to start. Now, I've read about every book I can on the subject (the big box store how-to's, Taunton press books, web sites, etc). Now, floor cabinets seem to be well known and there are many options, but it's more a matter of compression strength so I'm not too concerned with those. However, I still have some design points and questions re: wall cabinet construction for strength when we're talking large (say 30" wide). So, here they are and I'd appreciate some feedback:
1) I like the idea of using all 3/4" plywood construction for the carcass for strength and inventory management. For the volumes I'm likely to work with it's not going to be significantly more costly than mixed thickness design. Preferred cabinet type is face frame and solid wood doors. I know there's religious arguments over sizes, nailers, 1/4 backs, etc, etc, but I'm set on this point
2) For wall cabinets, my ignorance comes into play with the best/normal method for attaching the backs to the sides to ensure that they won't pull away from the frame and fail. I've seen rabbits, dados, butt joints, biscuits, dowels, screws and pocket screws.
If I may, I'd like to hear from the experts on what is the most appropriate type of joint when you're looking for strength (I can imagine 100+ pounds getting shoved in a cabinet over time). Maybe I'm just ignorant on the holding power of any of the above joints, but input would be helpful. As I see it, here's the issues with each (note: I freely admit I may be wrong with my assumptions, hence why I'm asking for comments and advice):
a) Rabbit joint: Enhanced glue surface area and the rabbit cutting would remove any prefinish surface <thinking in the future> so I'd have wood to wood glue. Problems may be that glue joint may not hold well with the plys/voids in the plywood and would screws really work with the edges of the rabbits on the exact center line of the rabbit?
b) Dados: If the dado is at the back of the side edge (no offset), I'd have a flat back but would glue alone give me the holding power? If not, glue and screws, but then I'd have the issue of side screws showing on the end cabinets. If the dado is recessed, I'd be back to having to use nailers to fir the back out to meet the wall
c) Butt Joint: Same issue as the dado above with screws and once again, glue holding power
d) Biscuits and Dowels: From my reading, biscuits are not recommended for strength and while dowels and stub tenons have a great reputation for strength, they would seem difficult to get accurate.
e) Pocket hole screws: Everything I've read says they're stronger than hades, but you still have the issue of side screws showing (or do you go in from the back?)
I know these are probably very simple questions, but I'd like to use the garage cabinets as my training ground for furniture quality cabinets and learn the right way from the start.
Thanks for any help or comments (or pointers to books and/or web sites that could help me understand this better)
Bob Hodges
<aka Durnik>
I'm going to start slow with my journey into woodworking (work is finally slowing down <or I am>) and one of the first things I'd like to build is of course the garage workshop. So, cabinet construction is something I'd like to focus on to start. Now, I've read about every book I can on the subject (the big box store how-to's, Taunton press books, web sites, etc). Now, floor cabinets seem to be well known and there are many options, but it's more a matter of compression strength so I'm not too concerned with those. However, I still have some design points and questions re: wall cabinet construction for strength when we're talking large (say 30" wide). So, here they are and I'd appreciate some feedback:
1) I like the idea of using all 3/4" plywood construction for the carcass for strength and inventory management. For the volumes I'm likely to work with it's not going to be significantly more costly than mixed thickness design. Preferred cabinet type is face frame and solid wood doors. I know there's religious arguments over sizes, nailers, 1/4 backs, etc, etc, but I'm set on this point
2) For wall cabinets, my ignorance comes into play with the best/normal method for attaching the backs to the sides to ensure that they won't pull away from the frame and fail. I've seen rabbits, dados, butt joints, biscuits, dowels, screws and pocket screws.
If I may, I'd like to hear from the experts on what is the most appropriate type of joint when you're looking for strength (I can imagine 100+ pounds getting shoved in a cabinet over time). Maybe I'm just ignorant on the holding power of any of the above joints, but input would be helpful. As I see it, here's the issues with each (note: I freely admit I may be wrong with my assumptions, hence why I'm asking for comments and advice):
a) Rabbit joint: Enhanced glue surface area and the rabbit cutting would remove any prefinish surface <thinking in the future> so I'd have wood to wood glue. Problems may be that glue joint may not hold well with the plys/voids in the plywood and would screws really work with the edges of the rabbits on the exact center line of the rabbit?
b) Dados: If the dado is at the back of the side edge (no offset), I'd have a flat back but would glue alone give me the holding power? If not, glue and screws, but then I'd have the issue of side screws showing on the end cabinets. If the dado is recessed, I'd be back to having to use nailers to fir the back out to meet the wall
c) Butt Joint: Same issue as the dado above with screws and once again, glue holding power
d) Biscuits and Dowels: From my reading, biscuits are not recommended for strength and while dowels and stub tenons have a great reputation for strength, they would seem difficult to get accurate.
e) Pocket hole screws: Everything I've read says they're stronger than hades, but you still have the issue of side screws showing (or do you go in from the back?)
I know these are probably very simple questions, but I'd like to use the garage cabinets as my training ground for furniture quality cabinets and learn the right way from the start.
Thanks for any help or comments (or pointers to books and/or web sites that could help me understand this better)
Bob Hodges
<aka Durnik>
