Building Permits Received

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AlexSwansboro

New User
Alex
Hooray,

I got my building permits today for a shop I'm going to build. It is going to a 24x24 1 or 1.5 story building (could use some suggestions on this, different between 1 story and 1.5 story is about $2,000) on a cement slab that has 16" wide footers that are 18" high and a 4" slab. If you know anything about concrete, please chime in about how much you would expect it to cost.

I have been talking with a concrete contractor about the slab and he says about $2000. The problem is that he seems to be unwilling to come out to my house at a time that is convenient for me. People in town say that he is good at what he does, but I'm a little nervous. He has been to my house twice now to look at the site, but I haven't met him yet.

As for the building itself, I plan on doing that with my family and a few neighbors. Overall suggestions and advice on this project are much appreciated.
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
Sounds like a integral perimeter beam at those dimensions. Otherwise footers are typically half as thick as they are wide.

Last I heard concrete costs were in the $110/ cubic yard cost range and a like amount for simple grading and placing/finishing the concrete. I figure that's about 14 yards of concrete you need + whatever rebar for the footers/beams. $2k seems low.

Also since you got the permits you are probably responsible for the inspections too. Be sure the concrete guy doesn't try to pull a fast one inspection wise.

For the shop consider 2x6 walls 10' high with a scissor truss roof/ceiling system. That way you have a clear span room and a nice ceiling. Don't skimp code wise. Remember code is minimum.

If you go to 1-1/2 story consider using clear span trusses or engineered beams so you can keep the main floor clear span.

Dont skimp on the electrical. Consider making it all surface mounted and in EMT. Easier to change that way.

Design your overall size to make optimal use of materials. Likewise pay attention to flashing and using pressure treated material at ground level.

It it was mine I'd consider traditional footer with either a block or concrete short wall to about 2' above finished grade. Then pour the floor (before or after the framing is done. Be sure to pay attention to requirements for tying the structure down to the foundation. No matter how you build it, the devil is in the details (ie:code book).
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Alex, The price you were quoted seems very fair. I am not really surprised he has not spent a lot of time on this project as he really won't be making that much to justify too many trips - most of the $ will be going to the concrete yard. You might need to go to him. There are some details you should check on: Is he going to meet the inspector before the pour or does he expect you to? How much gravel is called for under the slab? Is he going to install a vapor barrier and if so how thick - spend the extra for 10 mil if you must? Are you going to condition this space and if so are you are probably required to insulate the perimeter under the slab - who does that? If he works like many of the guys I have seen - he will arrive about 7am and dig and level, then the gravel trucks arrive about 9 and the inspector about 11, the concrete trucks will be there about 12 and they will be gone by 3 - All Done
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Swansboro being in a coastal region, you'll need to pay close attention to anchors in the slab for the walls and truss ties as well as bracing overall. Since it is not a residence, I assume you are not required to stay above the storm surge line......
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Also, make sure you know if the county inspector needs to sign off on any soil compaction (i.e footer base, fill dirt, etc) before the concrete pour. My neighbor was told to go ahead, but then the inspector notified him after the slab was down that he needed a soil compaction test certificate before he could erect his shop metal building. It cost him $500 and a couple weeks to find a company that could do it without tearing the slab back up.

Some counties/inspectors are a lot easier for self-contracting home owners to deal with than others. The one here seems to do everything possible to make the process difficult.

Go
 

wndopdlr

wally
Senior User
Most building inspectors, regardless of locality, rule over their own little fifedom. Establish a relashionship with your local building inspector and make him a "partner" to your project. The code book is open to some interpretation and you need to know how your inspector sees things before you spend time and money only to find that he did not agree with you or your contractors' interpretation.

These guys are human, most are well intended, and most will respond well to a well meaning, conscientious, DIY guy if they are approached properly.
 
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