Building new bench - soliciting feedback on top cutouts

wolfsburged

New User
Bill
I'm in the middle of a shop re-organization and workbench build. Long story short - I'm working out of a basement that was once a crawlspace, so I have some odd features to work around - namely that the ground level steps up a few times based on where someone decided to stop digging and poured concrete (I think so that they didn't undercut the foundation). So I have a huge corner of the area that is 2-4 ft elevated in an L shape. I'm building a new workbench into this space to make better use of the area. I also am re-doing my dust collection and running the new 6" piping under the bench to save space.

My bench design is built out using scrap aluminum extrusion and I have purchased two sheets of 30mm leftover Valchromat (think extra HD MDF) as the top.

This bench is going to do double duty as an assembly surface, router table, miter stand, etc. I am planning on using the left side to put my miter saw and the right side to have a router plate and removable Incra fence. The miter saw I plan on mounting on a plywood base and just pushing back out of the way or pulling forward when needed, and making some support/stop blocks to put on top of the bench and clamp down for repeatable stops - not planning on making a permanent miter saw backing fence. Likewise my idea on the router plate will be to drop the router down when not in use, and the Incra fence will remove and stow away to clear the top.

After watching lots of videos I've decided to do a MFT style top with 20mm holes spaced on 4" centers. I have a friend who has agreed to cut my design out on his CNC, so I have been working on a CAD drawing to layout the top cuts.

Before I finalize and commit the design to cut I'd appreciate any feedback on my planned drawing. I've spaced 4" center grid of holes, with some spacing so as to miss the aluminum extrusion bracing (3" wide) - so the pattern is not uniformly 4" spaced, but each 'section' is that way, and all will be laid out on 90 degrees so that I can use dogs and tools for layout.

My current design puts the center of the router bit 12-5/8" from the table front edge and 24-3/8" from the right edge. I will place the fence behind - have not finalized this but plan on using a plywood base and also cutting dog holes as a 'pin' mechanism to hold it onto the grid when done.

My main question right now is whether I am going to regret putting in so many dog holes. I realize that stuff will inevitable fall through. Considering using some 1/4" hardboard as a 'cover' to drop on top when doing assembly to cover the holes.

Anyway attached is a PDF of my CAD design and some photos for reference. I'd appreciate any feedback or suggestions. Angles may look wonky due to the wide angle and the uneven concrete, but everything on the current frame is nice and flat and square.

Overview of this space/corner:
KIMG6280.JPG


Right side where the router & fence will sit:
KIMG6278.JPG


Left side where the miter saw will sit:
KIMG6277.JPG


My CAD drawing as a PDF is attached
 

Attachments

  • Workbench 20230319-Model.pdf
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tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Can't count how many times I have been crawling around on the floor looking for screw that dropped through a hole. I had an older outfeed/assembly I did an 8 inch grid on. Never used most of them. Looks like you are doing a modular setup, so maybe make some with holes, some blank?

Guess it really comes down to what you want to build and thus what you want to use the holes for. Dennis ( H-O-W) seems to be a big proponent of full grid layouts but I notice basically a shelf below his workbench where parts and dust will settle. A place for dust to fall is anything within 10 feet of a miter saw! I guess there are some expensive surface clamping systems that can use a full grid if you clamp up a lot of frames.

You may also think about making more than one set of tops as they do get beat up and in a few years, finding another CNC and doing the setup may be difficult. If the top panels are all the same size, then you only need a few spares.

PS: Yes, that is typical foundation "benching".
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Have you thought about overhanging the top? Seems like that woukd be an issue. 6-8” seems about right.
 

wolfsburged

New User
Bill
Can't count how many times I have been crawling around on the floor looking for screw that dropped through a hole. I had an older outfeed/assembly I did an 8 inch grid on. Never used most of them. Looks like you are doing a modular setup, so maybe make some with holes, some blank?

Guess it really comes down to what you want to build and thus what you want to use the holes for. Dennis ( H-O-W) seems to be a big proponent of full grid layouts but I notice basically a shelf below his workbench where parts and dust will settle. A place for dust to fall is anything within 10 feet of a miter saw! I guess there are some expensive surface clamping systems that can use a full grid if you clamp up a lot of frames.

You may also think about making more than one set of tops as they do get beat up and in a few years, finding another CNC and doing the setup may be difficult. If the top panels are all the same size, then you only need a few spares.

PS: Yes, that is typical foundation "benching".

The small stuff falling through is definitely a big issue with all of the holes, and a PITA to deal with regardless.

I am not planning on making each section modular, rather I had to group the location of the holes to avoid the aluminum supports. So it would all be one big piece cut out.

I go back and forth on the holes. I see the benefit, but also the downsides. I flip flop between doing a few / no holes, a bunch of holes, or perhaps a t-track grid. I've been pondering cutting some 1/4" hardboard as a sacrificial top (loose or pinned at a few points, not glued down) that I could put down for assembly to cover the holes, and protect the top from glue, paint, etc. Maybe cut into thirds it would be less of a pain to swap.

Overanalyzing this for sure...
 

wolfsburged

New User
Bill
Have you thought about overhanging the top? Seems like that woukd be an issue. 6-8” seems about right.
Not planning on overhanging the edges. My plan was to use the frame as part of the clamping support if needed, and I would also have a bit of a 90 degree clamping surface with the extrusion t-track as well.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Not planning on overhanging the edges. My plan was to use the frame as part of the clamping support if needed, and I would also have a bit of a 90 degree clamping surface with the extrusion t-track as well.
I think you’re going to have a an issue with that. You need to be able to get your feet under more, like the toe kick in cabinets.

I think I would figure out a way to overhang the bench at least 3-4”.
 

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