Building a Stand/Cabinet for Jet 10" Tablesaw

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LeftyTom

Tom
Corporate Member
Nothing wrong with the open-base stand that same stock, except I need to saw 4-6" shorter, so I can reach all the way across the top. front to back. I though about changing the work surface height before, and a bit of kickback I got this morning (which glanced off my 6-pack abs :rotflm: ), was the last straw. Just a bit of scraped belly, and injured pride.

Sawing the stand legs off seems a bit too simple, which means for me it would go horribly wrong. :rolleyes:

So, I am wondering if anyone has done something similar? The saw weighs about 400 lbs minus the open-base stand.
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Tom, I don't know if this will help or not. The contractor style TS in the foreground is sitting on a plywood box I made. In my case I made it to raise the table height, but it will work equally well to lower it. It also conceals my dust control ducting which drops down under the floor and comes back up through the large duct you see in the back left side of the pic.

The box is constructed w/ vertical 2x4's inside each corner, and wrapped w/ 3/4" plywood. The top is 3/4" plywood resting on top of the 2x4's.


 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
I did one in MDF - I will try to get a picture this afternoon
(a few hundred things have to be move first!:help:) to even get a picture...
 
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a bit of kickback I got this morning (which glanced off my 6-pack abs ),

.
maybe you should explain this more what were you cutting and why you think it happend and why the table saw shorter would have fixed it.... I am all about building a new base for my saw so that is not at issue just wondered why you think kickback was because of height ? ?
 

LeftyTom

Tom
Corporate Member
The saw height finds me a few inches short of being able to push a piece 14.5" completely past the blade. Yes, I cut even larger pieces.
 

Volksdad

New User
Glen
The saw height finds me a few inches short of being able to push a piece 14.5" completely past the blade. Yes, I cut even larger pieces.
I'm not following- I kind of stand to the side when sawing and use push sticks, even with the kickback pawls installed. Wouldn't an out feed table, some finger boards and a push stick get you what you need?
 
I'm not following- I kind of stand to the side when sawing and use push sticks, even with the kickback pawls installed. Wouldn't an out feed table, some finger boards and a push stick get you what you need?
I highly recomend theese two products

http://www.grip-tite.com/GT/Home.html

and

http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/index.shtml

and they do not pay me to endorse them but I wish they would send me more cause they are not cheap but worth every penny
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
Thanks for starting this thread. I've been thinking about how I'm going to arrange my SawStop and Grizzly 10" TS. The grizzly is taller than the SS. I'd like to build a table that will house them both so I have a nice size run out table.. I like the lower height of the SawStop, so I think I'll remove the lower housing of the grizzly and build a stand for it. Sounds like a great idea! Please there will be lots of room for storage.
Michael
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Tom,
I finally got those pictures uploaded.
I built this "cabinet" 8 or more years ago.

It is 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep to accommodate the saw and is made from MDF.
I built a torsion box as the base and mounted locking casters. think MDF honeycombe-various 3 inch pieces slotted, glued and biscuit jointed inside the torsion box then face biscuit jointed and glued to the top and bottom of the box.

Then I built the cabinet on top of that! (BTW an MDF torsion box is massively heavy!)

I developed the pigeon-hole design around the planer and the welder purposely leaving space for the router. Years ago at the hardwood store I bought a delta add-on table (that is the top to the left of the saw. Shortly after that a friend had a unifence he didn't want any more (score!)


I put in a "Dust drop" under the saw, unfortunately a contractor's saw is so open I don't seem to get enough suction to pull all the debris out of the drop, but I do get a good down-draft when running the saw!


I purposely did not pull all my crap valuable commodities (like the motors) out of the way on purpose so that you can see how sturdy that torsion box is. No separation and VERY little if any sway or bowing to the cabinet! I have stood on it before and it is extremely sturdy.

I made one for my lathes it was 8 feet long and did have some sway. Unfortunately we damaged it in the move 4+ years ago. One wheel fell off the "Tommy-lift gate" of the moving truck and it was simply too much weight for that kind of jolt.

I hope this is of some inspiration to someone.
To me the best part about it is the versatility of it since you can make it exactly what you want to suit your shop (garage in my case) and the tools you want to put in it!


 
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Obxwoody

New User
Andy
I gotta tell you when you mentioned getting kickback in the abs hurting your pride and wanting to *lower* the saw I envision the kick back really hurting your pride then....is your push stick long enough, or are you not using one because...?? Then again I don't know anything....
 
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