Box Design

[Arcrist]

I know some of you are box masters (daveO) so can I get some advice on my box design? My main question is about the side panels. Should the front and back of the box be set outside, with the left and right panels set inside them?

www.dreadcraft.com/index_files/m1.jpg

The bottom should be inside from what I've seen so far. Or is this all a matter of opinion?

Thanks
Andy
www.dreadcraft.com

 

[DaveO]

If you are doing a butt joint then the front and back of the box should be on the outside with the side panels between them. Ideally the bottom should be captured in a dado in the sides but I have made many boxes where the bottom was just glued on the bottom then hid with molding.
But if you really want to take your boxes up a notch, mitered corners or even dovetailed or box jointed corners are a sign of a finer craftsman. I really like mitered corners with splines for strength..remember I showed you that jig. You can do nice one on the TS and the jig is easy to make.
Another tip, if you are making a box out of wood that you plan to have a natural finish vs. paint or colored lacquer is to build the box and then slice the top off that way the grain of the wood flows from sides into the top. That is very easy to do on the TS. You just want to make your cut a hair less than the thickness of the sides and then finish it of with a handsaw, clean up with a plan or sandpaper.

BTW calling me the Box Master when Big Mike is in the membership is blasphemy, my work pales in comparison to his. But thanks for the compliment anyway:mrgreen:

Dave

 

[Dutchman]

I think you have answered most of your questions. If you use a butt joint like your box shown, I would let the sides butt into the front and back (like what you did). On the bottom, one way to ensure you never have a crack at the bottom of your box is to machine a groove in the bottom of you sides and "lip tenon" the top of the bottom. That way the top of your bottom fits into a groove and you will not have a crack if it is not perfectly square. Make sure you push the bottom tight against the top of the groove in the sides.
On your dividers, make sure you "break" the top edges so they are not sharp. As you improve your skills, one way to take you box up a notch is to miter the corners. Not as easy as a butt joint, but looks more polished. Hope these suggestions help.

 

[Dutchman]

Opps, I think we have some of the same ideas Dave.

 

[DaveO]

Great minds think alike:mrgreen: :mrgreen:


Dave

 

[Arcrist]

Good ideas, I will try the grove on the table saw for the bottom piece. I can do miter corners, but they take me a good deal of time naturally.

Thanks again guys!

 

[DaveO]

Miters are a PITA, but if you do them with a system they can be easier. Set a stop for the front and back pieces to ensure they are the smae length. Clamp you stock to the miter saw or use a TS (if the balde can adjust accurately). Then move your stop to cut the side pieces. If all the pieces are the same length, and your 45º are on the money, then your box should come out square and tight. I use a Bessy strap clamp I got at Lowes to clamp the box together, it applies pressure on all sides of the joints, and allows you to see how they are coming together.
Dave

 

[clowman]

I think the miter corners will be your next step up.

If you have trouble with miters (like me), take a look at this link Pay special attention to the jig posted by Steve D.

 

[D L Ames]

Andy, another added benefit to using miters for the corners of your boxes is that you can get the grain of the box to flow around the edges of the box by cutting your sides and ends sequentially. To do this, use one piece of stock that is long enough to all four pieces from. Lay the sides and end out and cut in sequence like this. [ back | left | front | right ] By laying out your pieces like this your grain will match at 3 of the 4 corners. I hope this helps.

D L