Bought my first Tractor

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
When I got done bush hogging, the next morning the tractor had a flat front tire. Instead of trying to fix, it I just went ahead and bought a set of new tires. I mean the tractor still had the original front tires from 1962. If I can get 58 years out of the new ones... (Not holding my breath). I ordered made in the USA, Carlisle Farm Specialist F-2 3rib Agricultural Tire - 750-16 LRD 8PLY. Which is a bit of an upgrade from what the tractor manual calls for which is 6 ply.

I can't say enough good things about Tires Shipped 2 You there were the best price and I ordered from their website about 1:00am Wednesday morning and UPS had them here before noon the next day, Thursday. I took the old wheels into town to a place called tire plaza and they mounted the new tires in under 1/2 hour. New steel stems also for $29.95. I told them I bought the tires from Tires Shipped 2 You and they said I get a discount for mounting.

These tires are great quality, tubeless and recommended to be inflated to 54 lbs.
View attachment 197159
View attachment 197160

Tires Shipped 2 You also has car and truck and ATV, trailer tractor and other type of tires. If your looking for new one and you do order from them, then I hope your experience will be as good as mine was.
Those are some nice looking tires, and they should outlast you and the tractor. Be prepared for a sticker shock though when you go for new rear tires...........o_O
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Those are some nice looking tires, and they should outlast you and the tractor. Be prepared for a sticker shock though when you go for new rear tires...........o_O
I can only imagine... But thankfully the tractor has newer back tire already, still have the knobbies on them.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Question for those who know a lot more than me. I'm fixing on changing out all the fluids.

There's:
Antifreeze
Engine oil
Transmission/hydraulic
Final drives

I'm a little confused on the final drives (2). The manual calls for 80 weight. Do you think 85W115 would be ok? What's a good Transmission/hydraulic? I put AW32 in the bobcat but not sure what to put in this tractor?
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Question for those who know a lot more than me. I'm fixing on changing out all the fluids.

There's:
Antifreeze
Engine oil
Transmission/hydraulic
Final drives

I'm a little confused on the final drives (2). The manual calls for 80 weight. Do you think 85W115 would be ok? What's a good Transmission/hydraulic? I put AW32 in the bobcat but not sure what to put in this tractor?
85W/115 should be okay for your final drive since the lubrication viscosity in the winter is close to the traditional 80 weight.
AW32 IIRC stands for Anti-Wear, 32 weight. Since the transmission is acting as the hydraulic reservoir, any fluid used there should have that attribute, as regular hydraulic fluid would not act as a lubricant for the transmission. Most auto parts stores now usually keep several types in stock now. Don't forget the filters either. Servicing a tractor is vital to it's useful life. It may cost a little more, but if it prolongs the life of the unit, isn't it worth the cost?
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
85W/115 should be okay for your final drive since the lubrication viscosity in the winter is close to the traditional 80 weight.
AW32 IIRC stands for Anti-Wear, 32 weight. Since the transmission is acting as the hydraulic reservoir, any fluid used there should have that attribute, as regular hydraulic fluid would not act as a lubricant for the transmission. Most auto parts stores now usually keep several types in stock now. Don't forget the filters either. Servicing a tractor is vital to it's useful life. It may cost a little more, but if it prolongs the life of the unit, isn't it worth the cost?

After reading a little more and talking with my neighbor. I decided to go with the following and WIX filters

Engine oil = 15W40 Shell Rotella
Trans/Hydraulic = Costal Multitrac Tractor Fluid "the green bucket".
Final Drives = Harvest Gear Lube 85w/140.
 

bobsmodels

Bob
Senior User
Hi

Thats a lot grass. Do you have any neighbors who could bail it an use for feed? I have a similar sized fields and one neighbor bailed it for years, he raised horses and liked my grass because thats all it was ie was grass. He fed to his "fat" horses. Fellow stopped raising horses, now I have another farmer down the road bailing it for his grass fed cattle. By farming it I get to keep my ag rating on my land for tax purposes.

Bob
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Hi

Thats a lot grass. Do you have any neighbors who could bail it an use for feed? I have a similar sized fields and one neighbor bailed it for years, he raised horses and liked my grass because thats all it was ie was grass. He fed to his "fat" horses. Fellow stopped raising horses, now I have another farmer down the road bailing it for his grass fed cattle. By farming it I get to keep my ag rating on my land for tax purposes.

Bob

The property is already registered as a farm so that's settled. Now I just need to get my sales tax stamps, which I plan on doing this winter. Also plan on sheep this spring and pasture them on around 5 acres. The other 10 is really good for hay. Probably do a 50/50 split on that for a couple of years until I can get it fenced in and get some cattle on it.

Yesterday I plowed up a 100'x200' for garden next spring with a 14" deep mossy bottom. I was concerned that I might be plowing up rock at 14" but not a rock in sight. I was also expecting clay, but wrong again... Nothing but nice loose black dirt. I'm going to take a sample to FS for analysis and amend before I disc it down. Yesterday after I was done thousands of starlings discovered the newly broken ground and went over it with a fine tooth comb, no more worms or bugs left.
IMG_20201107_132204292~3.jpg
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
First fluids change for my D19.

Both finals 80wt + power director 20wt+ hydraulic 20wt + engine oil (unknown). Not so bad looking right? Wait for it...
IMG_20201130_215422096.jpg


7 gallons of 80wt from the transmission/differential. NASTY looks like a milk shake. My wife wouldn't let me in house unless I went to the laundry room and stripped down to my skibbies. I mean I smelt BAD, that oil was NASTY. Think of the smell of gear lube times 10. And no... that's not oil floating on water, that is the oil!
IMG_20201201_134511216.jpg

Still looking for the drain in the power assist steering, I can't find a plug anywhere. I think I'll have to loosen the lower hydraulic hose to drain it.

All fluids were full except for the finals which maybe had 1 quart in each. Should be like 1 gallon in each.
 
Last edited:

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have this untested feeling that the heavy wt. oils (e.g., 90 wt) of yesteryears all had a much stronger odor than the heavy weight oils of today. Interesting that there was that much water in the finals.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
I have this untested feeling that the heavy wt. oils (e.g., 90 wt) of yesteryears all had a much stronger odor than the heavy weight oils of today. Interesting that there was that much water in the finals.

No water in the finals, that nasty oil was from the transmission/differential. Each final (2) has it's own reservoir.
 

PhilErup

PhilErup
User
Guys, which do you think would be now a suitable choice for the first tractor?
I'd lean towards grabbing a classic. There's something about the resilience and personality of vintage tractors that modern ones just can't replicate. Take it from me—I've got a bit of experience in this realm. A while back, I snagged an old beauty from Home - Wickham Tractor Co. and it was one of the best decisions I've made. Not only did it come with that timeless charm, but the thing's built like a tank.

Working with that tractor has been a blast. It's amazing how these machines, with some care and the right parts, can outperform and outlast some of the newer models. So, if you're feeling a bit adventurous and want a tractor with character, definitely consider going vintage.
 
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Jim M.

Woody
Corporate Member
Here's my list:
Classic Ford 8N - parts are easy to find for a restoration (even Amazon has them) and ton of YouTube videos
1978-1982 John Deere 950 4x4 with loader - semi-classic workhorse JD that's affordable, 27- 31hp Yanmar diesel, part still available, had 2 hands down my favorite tractor.
For more modern choices - Mahendra is affordable for what you get or Kubota, the Cadillac of small to mid-size tractor
 

Craptastic

Matt
Corporate Member
Not looking for my first tractor anymore but I am looking for my next one presently.

What will you do with it?

That is a big question that you will need to answer before you go shopping. Just need a front end loader? How much does it need to be able to lift? Need a 3pt active hitch on the back (think they call it a class 1 3pt now)? What will you attach that you need to power it with (yes the HP rating of the 3pt matters greatly sometimes). Do you need the hoe abilities, and could maybe a dedicated hoe with rear attachment abilities work well enough for you? Going to do a bunch of lawn/landscaping work, and maybe a skidsteer that wouldn't tear up the current landscaping, that could accommodate other attachments that you would need, suffice?

I've had Case, M-F, Deere, Bobcat, and Kubotu equipment along the years. From a working dairy farm on down to clearing a 40acre woods to just upgrading and maintaining my home's landscape.

There's a wide range of capabilities and price. Define what you need and then go find that. New? Used?

That all said, if you are just a homeowner looking for a FEL tractor that you can put low capacity attachments on and have a great machine with a decent warranty you should take a look at the Bobcat CT1025. Quite a few attachments available, brand new with a FEL is $15K, easy to learn and use, but a bit limited in it's lift capacity (as a low end subcompact tractor will be).

Not a recommendation for your application, obviously.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
A man with land needs a tractor, just like a Wood worker needs a pickup truck and a trailer.
LOL, this thread just jumped up again.

Where I live, a man needs a wood shop, a wood fireplace to get rid of all the offcuts, a pickup truck to haul lumber, a gas powered chain saw to cut lumber, a tractor, a power washer, a motorcycle to take a break, a few long rifles, a shotgun, a few pistols, and a few revolvers.

Did I miss anything?
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Here's my list:
Classic Ford 8N - parts are easy to find for a restoration (even Amazon has them) and ton of YouTube videos
1978-1982 John Deere 950 4x4 with loader - semi-classic workhorse JD that's affordable, 27- 31hp Yanmar diesel, part still available, had 2 hands down my favorite tractor.
For more modern choices - Mahendra is affordable for what you get or Kubota, the Cadillac of small to mid-size tractor
One caveat to the 8N or any of the other early Ford tractors. The PTO is coupled directly through the transmission and any time the engine is not engaged through the clutch, energy from the PTO coupled equipment will still back-feed through the transmission. There's been many of these driven off into a pond or ditch because of this. Best get a slip clutch attachment for the PTO if you buy one. It's basically a one way ratchet that prevents this from happening. Newer model tractors have a 2 stage clutch that engages independent of the transmission. Also, remember that tractors are like every tool in your shop. They are all trying to kill you....
 

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