bonus - automatic tenons

Not open for further replies.


Corporate Member
I'm building a bed for my son out of walnut. I bought some 5/4 for the top and bottom rails that capture the 1/2" thick panel. After rough cutting and letting them acclimate, I ended up with some good bow making material. None of the other wood I bought acted like this board.
I needed a good inch in width but to joint these down (63" long) I would have had to empty the dust collector again and ended up with 5/8". Didn't want to spend more dinero for some flatter boards so I figured on practicing my veneering prior to the Class tomorrow.
I re-sawed these boards and re-sawed some Poplar I bought for my next project (drawer boxes). I now have 1/4"+ veneer to go around 1/2" poplar.
These are even wilder but I figured if I put them opposite each other the strain will even out. The huge benefit of this is that I have automatic 1/2" tenons and a cut 'dado' without getting out the router or dado blades! The only visible poplar will be at the bottom of the head and foot board, 6" off the ground. I'll probably stain the poplar anyway.
Sitting on the assembly table after glue-up.
Problem solved.


New User
It's done very frequently,by some shops....

It's the 'ole,if you are a hammer,everything looks like a nail syndrome.There are a lot of millshops that only see projects/jobs as a "cutting away" process.They're not equipped for large scale glue ups.

We had to solve problems on the fly in historic pres. work.Laminating was often not only a convenience but were homeruns in the engineering dept.It really should be considered more in all shops.

Think instead of dado'ing shelves in,using thinner plywood as spacers.Back in our cabinet days,we'd have mountains of ply drops.It was value added.

Not directed at anyone....but stop thinking "one way"..or,this is how we always do it.Value added is resources saved.Consider lamination processes from an engineering standpoint.APA tech articles,in a lot of cases can be applied to solid wood construction,so they are always a good source.

It's interesting,we built some 1200# doors awhile back.They were laminated built up solid wood @4" thick.Engineering is still fumbling with hardware.We could've done it here in a week end.They,were grossly out of their element considering the,expanding your knowledge base horizontally is good.


Corporate Member

BW you make a good point. The doors to the shop I built are 2 1/2" thick stiles and rails. They could have been mortised and tenoned traditionally but I elected to stack laminate yellow pine. This called for no chisel work to build full mortise and tenon doors. Simple cut and glue the 3 layers and the doors are as strong as you can imagine. Building them in shop on a platen allows you to make a square door and in 2 days the doors are hanging on pintel hinges. The ease of construction is quick and in the end you have a stronger more stable door than if you made them from solid stock.





Corporate Member
John I use the system you are trying all the time. Its stable strong and you can pick and choose the face "veneer" sheets to get nice results for a furniture piece. I think you are on track and you're going to wonder why you didn't do this before. Live and learn I guess is the catch all.

Keep cuttin'
Not open for further replies.

Our Sponsors