BLO with Beall Buff a NO-NO?

[timf67]

Okay, so I was trying out my new Beall 3-on buff the other night (stealth gloat - sorry no pics yet) and the directions said not to use BLO before buffing. It recommended Minwax Antique oil, Watco, or Tung Oil. Does anyone know why BLO isn't recommended?

 

[boxxmaker]

Funny,I just read a post yesterday (I think) and they were talking about using BLO and that was all one of the turners used and he said it buffed out real nice.My suggestion would be to give it a shot and see what happens.I would just make sure it is well cured and go easy as maybe they mean it is easy to go thru the finish.Wish I could offer better help,but good luck.

 

[Sandy Rose]

I put together a home-made buffing system, but it's the same thing as the Beal and I mostly use BLO - the one thing to keep in mind is that you have to let the oil dry and cure for 3 or 4 days or it does not polish very well.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

The only reason I can think of is because of the long curing time, like Ken said. If it's still a little bit tacky, it would gum up the buffing wheels. I use a BLO/Varnish combination, thinned w/ mineral spirits. It seems to dry faster than the BLO alone.

Bill

 

[jglord]

I used Watco Danish Oil (natural) on my fist band saw box made from Bolivian Cherry.
I found an article in a band saw box book but I don't remember which one. .:confused_

The recomended process was to apply a coat of watco and immediately sand with 320 grit. I used a foam-backed sanding pad. The surface dries very quickly and I repeated the process a total of 4 times. I then applied a full coat and let it dry for 72 hours. I then used all 3 steps of the Beall buffing process and got the finish seen here:

View image in gallery

View image in gallery​

I did try buffing it after 48 hours but the finish had not fully hardened. :BangHead: