BIG Lathe Talk

[WoodWrangler]

Now I'm dreaming a bit here, but it's hot on my mind ... so I wanted to see what talk could be generated about some of the BIG lathes ... in particular the OneWay 2000 and Powermatic 3520B.

Both look like beautiful offerings, but is the OneWay worth a few thousand more $$$$? Anyone have both, or used both extensively?

 

[woodArtz]

Hey Jeremy,
I have used both the PM and the OW. I liked both but, settled on the PM based on price and comfort level. In my limited time with the OW, I did not see enough of a performance increase to justify the extra dough. The 2HP OW is close to $3K more than the PM. I have the 3520B and absolutely love it. If you turn bowls, it is quite easy to move the PM headstock to the end of the bed and get into a great position without extra outboard attachments. BTW, you are welcome to come by any weekend to try out the PM. Here's one review I found recently... good luck! Bob

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=170

 

[Mike Davis]

I haven't worked on eother one, but I have a big old lathe and a little machine background so maybe a valid opinion.

I don't think you will see a difference untill you start slinging 300-400 pound blocks of wood. Then the One Way will shine. The frame is much stronger and being tubular it won't tend to flex as much.

 

[jimwill48]

I've played with both and can't afford either. But if i could I would get the PM3520B over the Oneway. It can do anything you could want to do, and is lots cheaper.

James

 

[WoodWrangler]

I've played with both and can't afford either.

Me either, but I'm trying to work out a deal to get something bigger one day and want to start researching now. The Oneway is so much more money, I was just curious as to why. I think the PM is expensive too (d'uh), but sometimes that means something is lacking.

 

[WoodWrangler]

BTW, you are welcome to come by any weekend to try out the PM.

Remind me again how far you are from Charlotte? :icon_scra

 

[Travis Porter]

The guy I bought my Felder from had a oneway lathe with a 10 foot bed extension. It was HUGE!!!

The Oneway I believe is built on a big cylinder of steel as its base. The PM3520 I believe is on a cast iron frame. If I had the space :help: I would take either. Both are impressive machines IMO.

I remember when you used to be able to get a Conover lathe where you provided some 2 by lumber and could make it as long as you want. It seemed to be a good idea, but I am not sure why they went out of business.

FWIW, I have heard that a Stubby is supposed to be the king of lathes. I haven't seen, used, or priced one, but I believe they think quite highly of them.

 

[jimwill48]

Jeremy,
The OneWay 2000 is built like a tank, very heavy and uses a frame made from a massive tube. The PM350B is made of cast iron and steel and is a lot lighter. I also think that the Digital Readout is going to be an issue on the PM at some point (never had a DRO that wasn't). The bearings on the OneWay are huge. That lathe could spin a VW if you could get it beween centers. You can also get some very intresting and long extention bases for it.

James

 

[tom hintz]

I used a couple Oneways for VERY short periods of time at friends shops.I have the Powermatic 3520B and honestly like it better. It is lighter than some Oneways but still weighs in at around 800 lbs. If that doesn't hold it down, you are doing something way wrong. And, with reasonble rpm settings, I've never had a vibration issue at any decent cutting speed.
The major thing I like about the 3520B is the repositionable powerhead. Being able to turn off the end of the lathe is way easier for me than sitting or leaning on the ways to get into a deep object.
I have a review of the 3520B at the link below if photos and video might be of help.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm3520brvu.html

 

[WoodWrangler]

I used a couple Oneways for VERY short periods of time at friends shops.I have the Powermatic 3520B and honestly like it better. It is lighter than some Oneways but still weighs in at around 800 lbs. If that doesn't hold it down, you are doing something way wrong. And, with reasonble rpm settings, I've never had a vibration issue at any decent cutting speed.
The major thing I like about the 3520B is the repositionable powerhead. Being able to turn off the end of the lathe is way easier for me than sitting or leaning on the ways to get into a deep object.
I have a review of the 3520B at the link below if photos and video might be of help.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/pm3520brvu.html

Hey Tom

So I guess this means you won't part with yours ...:rolf:

Honestly though, the rotating head was actually a concern of mine. After you rotate it, does it actually align well with the tailstock when put back into place (or do you have to tweak it each time)? My Delta does this too (rotates), but each time I put it back I always triple check the alignment (do I need to?)

 

[tom hintz]

Hey Tom

So I guess this means you won't part with yours ...:rolf:

Honestly though, the rotating head was actually a concern of mine. After you rotate it, does it actually align well with the tailstock when put back into place (or do you have to tweak it each time)? My Delta does this too (rotates), but each time I put it back I always triple check the alignment (do I need to?)

My 3520B is staying right where it is, under the threat of violence and other bad stuff.

The head does not pivot on the 3520b, just slides on the ways. I know the fixed head manufacturers say it can't be accurate but I suspect they are fudging a bit on that point, certainly in the case fo the 3520B anyway. I have moved my powerhead all over the bed and it still lines up with the tailstock perfectly when I lock them down.
To turn off the end, I slide the powerhead to the end of the bed. I use the short extension mounted in the lower holes and the included tool rest extension and can turn VERY large things that way. You can also turn off the end altogether and use a free standing tool rest and turn anything that will fit between the floor and ceiling. I haven't gotten that big with my turning just yet...

 

[jeff...]

I haven't gotten that big with my turning just yet...

We could always see what those bearings are really made of :gar-La;

 

[WoodWrangler]

Does anyone have a definite list of the differences between the "A" and "B" models of the Powermatic? I've not had much luck in finding a clear list online.

 

[woodArtz]

From a Sawmill post:

RPM: a new RPM display readout on the headstock facing the turner

Headstock: top of the flat headstock now has a slight recess across the entire top, which holds a rubber corrugated mat so you can put stuff up there (nice idea)

Controller: a different controller on the back, not substantially different from the old one

Indexer: built-in indexer on the inboard side of the spindle on the headstock

Tailstock: crank was chromed and slightly redesigned

Legs: supporting legs have an additional set of brackets providing the ability to more easily build a shelf underneath the bed

Legs: threaded holes on the outside areas of both sets of legs

Legs: threaded holes on inboard side allow for 18" bed extension to be mounted low so that large bowls can be turned

Legs: threaded holes on outboard side of headstock had an optional toolshelf mounted on those legs

Banjo: has lateral slots running across the whole banjo on both sides

Banjo: those slots provide a mounting point for an optional sliding dusthood for use during sanding (kinda neat)

Brackets: the tailstock and headstock have mounting brackets which extend away from the turner, where they allow a spindle to be mounted for reference during reproduction spindle work

Locks: redesigned "locks" at end of each bed to prevent headstock and tailstock from sliding out (can be retrofitted on current model)

Banjo: was keyed/slotted in the toolpost holder - so that a keyed toolpost could be inserted, thus locking the toolpost so there is absolutely zero rotational slippage

Headstock: has been chamfered in one area - the entire edge right near the spindle...allowing for easier access to the turning very close to the spindle

Headstock: the belt/sheave door is now spring loaded instead of being held by a threaded knob

Quill: on the tailstock is laser etched allowing for an easier visual gauge of how far the ram is being moved

Tailstock: now has a storage door in the existing big cavity facing the turner

Stock toolrest: has a steeper bevel along the top of the toolrest, allowing for the turner to drop their toolhandle lower and still have contact with the top of the toolrest

Slide Hammer: chrome knockout slide-hammer provided for knocking out a drive center

Features which were unchanged:
- spindle lock is the same
- 2HP motor is the same
- knobs and levers all exactly the same
- same colors, and the rest of the lathe was the same

 

[Sanders Fine Woodworking]

Jeremy,

I too have a 3520B. I love it. I'm north of you between Mooresville and Salisbury. You are welcome to visit any time and run her through her paces.

Steve Sanders

 

[FredP]

I love my 3520b. never used a OW. you may also want to check oy stubby and robust. both get good press.

fred

 

[froglips]

During my research in making the Monster Lathe, I did study the big lathe options out there.

One more recommendation for the Stubby. A local professional turner in Hillsborough has one, its really amazing. A hunk-u-hunk-a cast iron to say the least. I've been in her shop and had a tour of the beast.

Henger UK sells VB36 http://www.hegner.co.uk/pages/VB36_Lathes/vb36_lathes.html

Another brand in the higher end to consider is Vega http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=lathes-vega

There is also the Nichols Lathe http://members.aol.com/lathebldr/

Hey, its only money

Jim

 

[WoodWrangler]

For me personally, I want a lathe long enough to make a full size baseball bat and strong enough to turn a decent size bowl. Variable speed is required, preferrably all the way down to zero. Heavy, heavy, heavy is required. And well built ...

 

[ashley_phil]

This one big enough for you?

http://www.woodweb.com/exchanges/machinery/posts/422912.html

 

[BobN]

For me personally, I want a lathe long enough to make a full size baseball bat and strong enough to turn a decent size bowl. Variable speed is required, preferrably all the way down to zero. Heavy, heavy, heavy is required. And well built ...

Sounds like your talking about my lathe, a Powermatic 4224. I can turn something 42" long or a bowl 24" in diameter.
It weights in at 904 lbs. and has variable speed from 3500 right down to zero. Also has reverse on it. It runs so smooth and quiet. Built to last a lifetime.

Bob