Best plane for smoothing out glue ups?

[thsb]

What plane do you all recommend for smoothing glue ups? I am realizing that power tools and my Festool sander are very nice, but that doesn't mean they are the best way to go. I thought that many of you were over-romancing the hand tools, but after working with a card scraper i am now properly aware of how more efficient and effective they can be in the right situation..

I am either getting smarter, or older, or both...;-).

TIA,
Tim

 

[Mike Davis]

I use a card scraper to remove glue. If it is more than a scraper can handle then I use a chisel. I think glue is too hard on a plane, I don't use a plane that way.

 

[dancam]

I use a carbide bladed hand scaraper or a card scraper. See pic.

 

[CrealBilly]

 

[nn4jw]

I use a shop built tool that's basically an old plane blade and associated wooden holder so that the blade lies flat and bevel up. Here's a link to how I made it:

http://jrwagner.org/blog/2013/07/16/glue-squeeze-out-scraper/

 

[Jeff]

A Stanley #80 cabinet scraper is a step up from a card scraper and much heftier, but it only works on the push stroke. I like either one depending upon how much glue crud has to be removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylmCfOH4k0Q

 

[Charlie Buchanan]

I like to use a cheap paint scraper on the glue squeezout once it becomes rubbery but before it hardens. Then, when you unclamp you can go to a # 80 scraper or a smooth plane to level the wood at the seams.

 

[thsb]

Thanks all,
to clarify this is where the glue up didn't go perfectly and i have to take off 1/16 or 1/32nd of one side. i appreciate the ideas. there is something called a smooth plane? I have a low angle jack plane and i am still learning to use it and wondered if it is the best for the situation.

 

[Charlie Buchanan]

#3, #4, and #4 1/2 are generally known as smooth planes since they are used to do final smoothing of the surface. But you could certainly use a low angle jack. Don't try to take a 16th off at one pass--work it down over several passes diagonally across the seam from different directions. Then when you are about level finish up planing with the grain direction. Sharp iron--set fine for final surfacing.

 

[KenOfCary]

Like others I use a combination of carbide scrapers, a Stanley #80 Scraper Plane or a card scraper. Since I've started using a few Dominoes to line up the glue-up, the boards fit flatter and there has been less clean-up/leveling to do.

 

[thsb]

Thanks Ken,
I used to use the domino on all of my glue ups and lately i have not been using them because I felt they were often unnecessary. I have had a couple situations lately where i think i should have used them and ended up doing a lot of smoothing work despite my use of cauls. Ultimately the problem was not prepping the wood enough, but i had situations where if it was going to be perfectly flat i would have ended up with too thin of a board. still learning....

Like others I use a combination of carbide scrapers, a Stanley #80 Scraper Plane or a card scraper. Since I've started using a few Dominoes to line up the glue-up, the boards fit flatter and there has been less clean-up/leveling to do.

 

[Mike Davis]

I think I misunderstood your question because the last word was cut off in my browser.

I think you are asking more about the mismatch of the wood after glue-up?

I approach this as I would any hand plane job. First I use a try plane #5 or 6 across the grain to rough cut most of the waste away. Then a jointer #7 or 8 with the grain to get everything as straight and level as possible. Then finally a smoother #3 or 4 to make a perfectly mirror smooth finish. A card scraper then if needed to handle any spots of twisted or odd grain.

 

[thsb]

Thanks Mike. I didn't explain myself very well. and this last post lays out a nice process.

 

[zapdafish]

I like using a crank neck chisel for glue cleanups. I got one from the tool shop over the woodwrights school. If it's to flatten boards that aren't flush I use the festool rs2e with 40-60 grit because I got a great deal on a used one.

 

[thsb]

a couple of questions:
what is your progression of sandpaper if you start so low (40-60 seems at high risk for sanding marks?).
also, which will level wood more quickly the rs2e or the festool ets 150 (which is what i have)?

I like using a crank neck chisel for glue cleanups. I got one from the tool shop over the woodwrights school. If it's to flatten boards that aren't flush I use the festool rs2e with 40-60 grit because I got a great deal on a used one.

View attachment 17690

 

[nn4jw]

Looks like many of us, including me, thought you were looking for tools to clean up glue squeeze out and posted accordingly. Mike's post on flattening the panel is more relevant.

But there were a lot of interesting posts on tools for dealing with squeeze out.

 

[Mike Davis]

Some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you. Or, most days everybody understands the question and have great answers while I am fumbling my brain.

 

[zapdafish]

For something like a butcher block glueup. I use the chisel to remove most of the glue. At that point I'll use the Rotex with 40 grit in rotary mode. I move pretty quickly because it's very aggressive and I don't want to sand in peaks/valleys.

Once the glue is gone, the wood is slightly rough to the fingers and any offest wood is flattenend. For some reason feels moist as well but it's not.


I then go to 80grit in random mode. Here I take my time until the surface feels nice a slick to my fingers.


For Oak I then go to 100, 120, 150


For maple i take it to 180, 220


I then hit the surface with mineral spirits and a flash light and look for marks. I am getting pretty good at not having to go back.










For a flat panel glueup like a cabinet door where there might be just 2-3 boards glued up I use crank neck chisel and then the RS2 and start at 80, or a rotex and start at 80 in random mode. There isn't nearly as much mess to deal with for me to start at 40 grit

 

[kooshball]

I keep an old (read: non collectible) jack plane in my tool chest for this purpose as well as other tasks. I have found it to result in less collateral damage than a chisel and less wear and tear on your thumbs than a card scraper.

 

[thsb]

I ordered that scraper (and a spare blade) and I like it a lot. thanks for the tip. Using the card scraper too. They have already saved me a lot of time. thanks.tim

I use a carbide bladed hand scaraper or a card scraper. See pic.