Beginner question - screws to use?

[dazart]

I'm starting to look at building some lower cabinets for storage in my garage. I found a design to use but it doesn't mention what length or gauge screws to use for assembling things. It's using ~3/4" plywood. I was thinking 1 1/4" screws (hadn't thought about gauge), but I thought of that only because that would be half way into the second piece if I was screwing them back to back.

After thinking about it it'll almost never be that. Most of the time it will be a side into the 'end-grain' of the plywood right? So is that length even right?

 

[ScottM]

Can you show us the design? Many cabinets are made without screws using dado or rabbet joints where glue and brad nails are used to assemble. Other cabinets are made using face frames made with or without pocket screws. face frames for cabinets - YouTube

 

[Canuck]

When building shop cabinets or utility/laundry room cabinets, I have almost exclusively used Kreg pocket screws. I find that they hold well and easy to use. Also, use a lot of McFeely square drive screws for fastening cabinets to walls and/ or mounting French Cleats to wall studs.I

Wayne

 

[Raymond]

Are you planning on using pocket hole construction method for this cabinet, Steve? If so, then that might be the correct screw length.

 

[JimD]

If you are using through screws, not pocket screws, I would use 1 5/8 instead of 1 1/4. I would use coarse threaded screws. Especially if you glue as I do, drywall screws should work fine. They are brittle but their role is essentially that of a clamp. Once the glue sets they are not needed.

If you bore a hole for a plug, the 1 1/4 would probably work but I think they would still be a bit short. 1 inch penetration into the other piece is a good goal.

 

[Michael Mathews]

For general purpose type stuff I prefer the Spax screws. They are self threading (tapping) and also self counter boring. They usually come with a new driver bit in each box, so that's a bonus too! I usually still predrill my holes anyway.

 

[dazart]

Not sure I can share the design since I bought it from someplace. I can put the link to it but all it shows is pictures of the final product which isn't much help. It isn't using pocket holes though.

 

[Skymaster]

when using thru screws ie side into stretchers i use 2" usual rule is penetration equal to the thickness of the wood. so 3/4 into 3/4 equals 1 1/2 min

 

[Pop Golden]

McFeely square drive screws, YOU BET! Love square drive screws and HATE slot drive. I will from time to time use a Philips. As for length I would use 2-1/2 to 3 inch coarse thread.

Pop

 

[Skymaster]

Use combo heads, also there is a combo bit so if it is square or phillips same bit

 

[Gofor]

For general purpose stuff:

If I am leaving the screws in, I usually use deck screws - Coarse thread and tougher than drywall screws. I also prefer the square drive or combo head. (I buy them by the 5 lb box, so always have them around).

If I am just using the screws to clamp while the glue dries, and then removing, I use Lath screws - Wide flat shoulder and coarse thread leaves a lot smaller hole to fill after I remove them.

If using deck screws, either make sure the smooth shank is a least as long as the first layer of wood it is going through, or pre-drill to the outside diameter of the threads (first layer only). This ensures the surfaces will be pulled tight together and the screw does not "jack" the top board away from the anchor board. My preference is to pre-drill. That lets me establish a definite location, and its much easier to start the screw during assembly.

 

[Jeff]

Are these lower cabinets going to sit on the floor next to each other like lower kitchen cabinets or will they be mounted on the wall next to each other?

Can you provide a very rough hand drawn sketch of 2 of the cabinets like the ones in your picture. Post the link to your picture.

The screws come later after the design but lots of screw types will work.

 

[dazart]

 

[JimD]

Steve,

For a garage, I would not have the cabinets go to the floor. I would build a separate base of PT lumber for them to sit on. Normal wood or sheet goods will not survive long sitting on concrete. Garages tend to get wet and water comes out of concrete or condenses on it. The separate base also simplifies the cabinet construction and allows you to level things out more easily. The simple way is to just make the base of PT 2x4s screwed or nailed together and perhaps painted.

Jim

 

[dazart]

The plans do call for using leveling feet, so I think those would be touching the ground and not the plywood, but I wouldn't have thought of that. I found a picture that shows the front from a build someone else did. It looks like it's not touching the ground.

 

[Rwe2156]

1 1/4" definitely too short for 3/4 ply. 1 1/2" minimum I often use 2". In ply set drill depth about 3/4 length of screw and use self drilling screws. GRK or Spax.

If you don't want the screws to show on the end panels you can either go with pocket screws or fill the holes with filler or plugs.

 

[Jeff]

View attachment 192693

I still don't understand where 1 1/4"- 1 1/2" screws will be used OR need to be used.

 

[Oka]

For any deck type screw I have moved almost exclusively to the 6 point internal star or torx head, they rarely strip, in fact I can only think in the last 6 months where one failed. They work the best for me. If I use drywall or other type screws I usually pilot drill 1st. 80% of my work is in wood hard as oak or harder, so shearing screw heads totally suck and can likely ruin a piece just because I usually, only have a few places where I can screw or attach at.

 

[Johnson]

1.25 pocket screws is correct for 3/4" stock if using that method. I second the recommendation for Spax Screws for "typical" butt joints. I have also used GRX with similar success.

I am building a face frame cabinet right now and I used pocket screws for the stretchers and a dado for the bottom panel above the toe kick. The face frame is also pocket screwed on the back side. If you don't want to do joinery, then I would use pocket screws to join your cabinet carcass.

 

[Rushton]

My preference has turned to using GRK fasteners, either cabinet screws with the low profile wide flat heads or countersunk wood screws. Incredibly tough. Torx (star drive) heads with driver included in each box. They're more expensive, but they're now my "go to" fasteners.

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