A couple weeks ago my niece and her husband gave me this: 
After 72 hours soaking in penetrating fluid, another 12 in Evapo-Rust, and a little more TLC, it now looks like this:
, 
.
Problem is that the iron and chip breaker looks like this:
.
So, I bought these to replace them:
.
But, when I installed these, due to the thicker iron, the maximum throat gap I can get is this:
It will plane very fine shavings with a minimum depth of cut, but anything more chokes the throat. The Veritas irons are about 0.100" thick, and the standard Stanleys are about 0.750".
So, I think I have several options. I also have a Bailey #6 and a Bailey #7 from close to the same time era, but both have been reconditioned (flattened and repainted, etc). I can put the iron and chipbreaker from either of them on this plane and keep it pretty close to original condition. However, that still leaves me with two new blades that are too thick (all three throats are the same depth).
The way I see it:
1. I can grind more taper on the primary bevel of the new blades (both are at 25 degrees now, and I would have to go down to at least 20) which may allow me to move the frog back to get a slightly more clearance.
2. I can deepen the throat on one or more planes.
If I go with option 2, is it best to take material off the front or the back side of the throat. Front is easiest, but more critical on being straight and square to the iron. Back is more difficult due to the bevel not giving much clearance for a file or float (it would have to be less than 0.100" thick, so would be a very fine tooth).
Or, are their other options I am missing?
Appreciate any insight/comments/suggestions.
Go
I may or may not do more clean-up, etc. I am looking for performance, not looking for it to look like brand new. Depending on how it performs, I may have to flatten the bottom a tad more to get the area in front of the throat a little flatter. Sides are square to the base. I did not realize how much difference the Bedrock was from the Bailey before I got this.
After 72 hours soaking in penetrating fluid, another 12 in Evapo-Rust, and a little more TLC, it now looks like this:
, .Problem is that the iron and chip breaker looks like this:
.So, I bought these to replace them:
.But, when I installed these, due to the thicker iron, the maximum throat gap I can get is this:
It will plane very fine shavings with a minimum depth of cut, but anything more chokes the throat. The Veritas irons are about 0.100" thick, and the standard Stanleys are about 0.750".
So, I think I have several options. I also have a Bailey #6 and a Bailey #7 from close to the same time era, but both have been reconditioned (flattened and repainted, etc). I can put the iron and chipbreaker from either of them on this plane and keep it pretty close to original condition. However, that still leaves me with two new blades that are too thick (all three throats are the same depth).
The way I see it:
1. I can grind more taper on the primary bevel of the new blades (both are at 25 degrees now, and I would have to go down to at least 20) which may allow me to move the frog back to get a slightly more clearance.
2. I can deepen the throat on one or more planes.
If I go with option 2, is it best to take material off the front or the back side of the throat. Front is easiest, but more critical on being straight and square to the iron. Back is more difficult due to the bevel not giving much clearance for a file or float (it would have to be less than 0.100" thick, so would be a very fine tooth).
Or, are their other options I am missing?
Appreciate any insight/comments/suggestions.
Go
I may or may not do more clean-up, etc. I am looking for performance, not looking for it to look like brand new. Depending on how it performs, I may have to flatten the bottom a tad more to get the area in front of the throat a little flatter. Sides are square to the base. I did not realize how much difference the Bedrock was from the Bailey before I got this.
