Battery Powered Chainsaws

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
So have you used your Stihl cordless saw yet? How satisfied are you with it? Would you recommend it ?
thanks, —Claus

Yes, Claus. I have used my Stihl cordless and it works as advertised. The thickest piece of wood I have cut with it was about 8 inches. It worked surprisingly well and cut through it without a problem. I used it for about 40 minutes on the first battery and notice it was slowing down so I switched to a fresh battery and finished cutting all of the wood in about 75 minutes. I was pleased with the performance and I would recommend it based on the first use alone. Some time next month, I am going with a neighbor to cut some wood on his property and we will see how well it holds up.

The only drawback so far is the cost of the spare batteries - those suckers are not cheap.
 

Barry W

Co-Director of Outreach
Barry
Corporate Member
Something I don't think anyone has mentioned is sharpening the &*%$# chain, a chore I absolutely hate. Luckily, Stihl has an easy solution, their 2-in-1 Filing Guide. This device sharpens the chain cutters and lowers the depth gauges simultaneously. It's extremely simple to use and helps the chain to last longer, that's important when sawing locust trees.
1614397189415.png
 

gfernandez

Gonzalo
Corporate Member
Something I don't think anyone has mentioned is sharpening the &*%$# chain, a chore I absolutely hate. Luckily, Stihl has an easy solution, their 2-in-1 Filing Guide. This device sharpens the chain cutters and lowers the depth gauges simultaneously. It's extremely simple to use and helps the chain to last longer, that's important when sawing locust trees.
View attachment 200137

I bought one of these for my gas saw and it is a game changer. Absolutely worth the price.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
When I lived in PA I was fortunate to cut up some trees at the church we were members of. Another member present heated his house with wood before getting married. So he cut up 4-5 cords, at least, per year. He had three sizes of Stihls. I had my little McCullough and thought I knew what I was doing. He saw me going through a tree at least 20 inches in diameter with my little 14 inch bar and loaned me his big Stihl. But when I started moving it around he asked me to stop. His point was that a properly sharpened chain will pull the saw through the log and the operator should be lifting up on the saw but not moving it around. That can stretch the chain. When the saw starts throwing dust and not chips it is time to sharpen the chain. He also instructed us to limb the trunk before starting to cut up the trunk. Start small and go down the tree. This keeps the bar out of the dirt and helps with safety. These were good insights I still follow.

To sharpen I just use a file that has a guide on top with various angles. A few strokes per tooth should do it if you didn't hit a rock or something. I find that filing down the rakers is not often required - no more than every 5-10 sharpenings. It's good to have the gauge and check them but I don't see the value of a guide that does both at the same time. But I haven't used it and could change my mind if I did.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I have sharpened chainsaws most my life, as my parents owned a timber ranch. Just like many things, once you understand how to do it, it is fast easy and you will get predictable results every time.
Depending on the chain you are using a 5/32 round or 7/32 round file and a small single cut mill file for the raker adjustment. The advantage of learning how to do it with just 2 files is speed and the convenience. I would not recommend square sharpening a blade. Square sharpening is way faster cutting but ANYTHING you hit that is not wood will totally dull it instantly. WE only used this on Felling saws (over 24" dia). Round cut is a lot more forgiving. Finally, get full skip blades. There are less teeth on these and they are easier/faster to sharpen. Full comp blades have more teeth and messier raker assembly, which slows the pulling of the chafe out of the cut. This is usually what every homeowner saw has on it when you buy it. If I had to render a guess they are less prone to kickback, ergo safer for the weekend warrior.
chain.jpg
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Thanks Sam, I like Project Farm and that video is enough to convince me that the Stihl is a good sharpener. When I used my chainsaw a lot more I used to keep a couple spare chains and my sharpening equipment in the home made box with the saw. But I found myself sharpening the chain instead of swapping it because it was faster. Now that my little battery saw gets such infrequent use I haven't had to use a sharpener on it yet. Keeping it out of the dirt helps a lot. But when it needs sharpening I will try my old tools first. If I decide I need something new I will consider the Stihl.
 

kurtwp

New User
Kurt
If you do not already own lawn equipment that uses batteries, pick a brand that has multiple tools that you can purchase. I am not a fan of having 10 different tools with 10 different batteries and changers. I went with Ego as I have been using Ego for 4 years now.
 

Flute Maker

Mike
User
I went through the same dilemma and ended up buying a Greenworks 12V corded electric saw. Cost being one of the main reasons. Besides the initial cost of the battery operated saw I would have had to buy the charger at extra cost and later on buy replacement batteries. Since my main reason for an electric saw is to aid in working up bowl blanks I just could not justify the difference in cost for the convenience of a cordless battery saw. I also already have a gas powered chain saw for places too far away for using a drop cord. The corded saw will cut at longer intervals than a battery saw because it does not have to be recharged, thus no need to buy extra batteries to keep working. It is one of those things you have to weigh out as to how you plan on using the saw. AND at 77 years young, how much longer will I use a chainsaw anyway.
I also went with an electric one...a Makita and it has been very good...I was unsure of the battery ones at the time ..This was probably 12 yrs. ago.I know they are better now than they were then.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Something I don't think anyone has mentioned is sharpening the &*%$# chain, a chore I absolutely hate. Luckily, Stihl has an easy solution, their 2-in-1 Filing Guide. This device sharpens the chain cutters and lowers the depth gauges simultaneously. It's extremely simple to use and helps the chain to last longer, that's important when sawing locust trees.
View attachment 200137

I had an early version of that sharpener, this looks much better! I've owned Stihl chainsaws for years but not their battery units. I do have a HF Lynxx pole trimmer chainsaw that works great and uses same battery as my Lynxx blower. For sharpening a chain I discovered that a rotary tool (Dremel) and a .325 sharpening bit is incredibly fast. Actually it's so fast you need to be very careful ;)
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks @awldune for posting that - I am shocked that the HF was as good as it is, but I have had the Stihl sharpener in my hand, recommended on another video and just wasn't sure if it would be money well spent... now I know.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Especially for the little bar on an electric chain saw, there isn't much to be gained with a powered sharpener. Hand sharpening is not much slower and if you have to go get power or something it may be slower to use a powered sharpener. Couple files and possibly a guide (I have one on my round file and one to check the rakers and, if necessary, make sure I file to the right depth). The two files with their guides fit easily into the box my gas chain saw is in. When I need to sharpen my battery powered saw, I will at least try to use the same files and guides.
 

awldune

Sam
User
Thanks @awldune for posting that - I am shocked that the HF was as good as it is, but I have had the Stihl sharpener in my hand, recommended on another video and just wasn't sure if it would be money well spent... now I know.

I own the HF and find it difficult to use and easy to screw up with. But I guess with practice you get better at it. IMO it is best for a chain that has been sharpened many times by hand and has gotten out of whack.
 

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