Reply to all: Yes, ultimately at the end of all arguing and finger pointing it is the GC's responsibility to do a proper installation. He doesn't want to admit a mistake because then the tiled in enclosure would have to be torn out, which would destroy the tile and who knows what damage might get done to the floor tile at the seams, and the entire structure rebuilt and retiled. This is about 1/3 of the entire project, and we just paid $9,300 for the tile labor. That means $3,000+ for the tile reinstallation plus new tile plus demo plus rebuild of proper size tub enclosure plus likely purchase of new tub because the one in place is likely to rip apart when someone tries to remove it. Add it up and you're at $5,000-$6,000+ for a properly corrected job. The GC is not going to volunteer to spend that kind of money. That's why I'm searching for a workaround. If this doesn't get resolved next week my wife is looking at months to a year of an unfinished, partially unusable master bath. I'll do a lot of things to avoid that.
The tub is sitting on fresh mortar on top of a plywood subfloor. The tub floor does not flex. The whole tub does not budge when the plumber lifted up on the front edge as hard as he dared without the rollover lip ripping apart. Another plumber from same company said he saw mortar squeeze out under the tub. A friend who has done several remodeling installs of tubs and showers says the primary purpose of the mortar underneath is to support the bottom of the tub and stop flexing. Gluing it in place is secondary but is intentional. The bottoms of all tubs are not flat; they slant downward rear to drain at front so water will run out, i.e. the rear is higher and needs filler underneath. Can I get by with minimal grout--1/8" to no more than 1/4" thick around the drain pipe and appropriate thickness at rear of tub to support the floor?
