Basic Cabinet Construction Question

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Bigdog72

New User
Geoff
I learned to build all my kitchen base cabinets with a 3 1/2" toe space. But...I am not happy with the way my cuts come out for this. I use a jig saw but the cuts are never spot on. There is always one cut that wanders or whatever. What is your technique for making this cut?
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I use the table saw and finish up with the jig saw if its an end panel. in the middle I set the blade high and overcut some. it will never be seen so the only thing I worry about is that the kicks go on strait. I use 3/4" stock for kicks so if the cut isn't perfect no one will ever know.:icon_thum
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
I've always made my cabinets without a toe jamb space and then put them on a base made to 3 1/2", this way you can level the base without a problem. Next time I make cabinets for the kitchen I will put drawers in the base for storage of trays, cake pans and muffin tins.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Jimmy's way is the way I used to do it, when I used to do it and if I ever do it again!
I just tried to say that sentence out loud....hurt myself!
 

Bigdog72

New User
Geoff
I've always made my cabinets without a toe jamb space and then put them on a base made to 3 1/2", this way you can level the base without a problem. Next time I make cabinets for the kitchen I will put drawers in the base for storage of trays, cake pans and muffin tins.

How did you treat an end panel?
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
You didn't ask me, but I'll tell you anyway. I bring the bottom rails to the floor on the ends covering the butt end of the base. I used plywood for the base; always stays level and doesn't sag over time. In my house the ply is cherry, but when I was building there was a black melamine-like surface on MDO that was available. Need a pic, just let me know.
 
M

McRabbet

I've always built my cabinets without the toe kick as part of the main carcase. Like Jimmy, I build a frame that I install on the floor first with levelers and I make sure the entire frame is leveled first. The cabinets get screwed onto the frame with 3/8" holes cut to get to the leveler screws. I install a 1/4" plywood kickplate spray painted black after all of the cabinets are installed. When I have an end piece that does not have a toe kick, I build a panel that extends to the floor (I prefer raised panels and never leave plywood exposed).

Here is a false panel with a toe kick for Built-in Dining Room Cabinets I built in 2007. The double doors at the right look like they have a toe kick, but they don't -- they open to reveal a computer workstation (the counter top above it is shown folded back on its barrel hinges). Second picture shows the full computer workstation with the keyboard tray pulled out and the monitor raised. You can see there is little wasted space -- there is a drawer behind the computer monitor that pulls out, too!

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100_3796.jpg
 

Bigdog72

New User
Geoff
Thank you to all! I used the table saw method recommended by several and I am very pleased with the result. Funny how the simple solutions are sometimes the most difficult to figure out!
 
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