Bandsaw Resaw Jig

[gesiak]

Several weeks back I needed to resaw some mahogany. First attempts on my Ridgid 14" bandsaw were dismal to say the least. Well, thanks to some help from Mike Davis, KenofCary and a few others I have it performing to an acceptable level. So to aid in consistant resaw cuts I made a jig to help set my Carter magnetic fence. It is just a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany about 12" long and 1.8" wide. I drew lines every 1/8th inch. Then made a 4" long kerf on each line.



To set the fence I then insert the blade into the kerf for the thickness I want to resaw about 2" in.



I then slide the fence to the jig matching the angle of the jig to the blade.

Every resaw cut I have done has the very consistant in thickness.

Thanks for looking.

 

[BWhitney]

Amazing idea! I have been having trouble with mine (nail completely hidden in an oak board) and I'm going to try your trick. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Michael Mathews]

Yesterday morning on the chat session we briefly talked about resawing. I had some boards to resaw and haven't done any of this process on my Rikon 14" yet. So yesterday mid-morning, I headed out to the shop to take care of step one, change from 3/8 blade to 1/2" Wood Slicer! First issue was I found two guide bearings locked up. I removed them and placed in a small container with penetration oil. I continued to get the WS blade installed and aligned best I could with hand power initially, then electric. After just a small bit of tweaking of the upper wheel, the blade was running very true on the crown of the wheel. Back to the bearings. I got them spinning as best is possible for some failing bearings. I installed and test cut a 5" board. I made the most beautiful piece of consistent 1/8" Sepele veneer! I haven't tried to make the "needed" cuts yet, but so far I'm extremely excited with the results. Just like you see on Youtube and other WW sites!

 

[gesiak]

Yesterday morning on the chat session we briefly talked about resawing. I had some boards to resaw and haven't done any of this process on my Rikon 14" yet. So yesterday mid-morning, I headed out to the shop to take care of step one, change from 3/8 blade to 1/2" Wood Slicer! First issue was I found two guide bearings locked up. I removed them and placed in a small container with penetration oil. I continued to get the WS blade installed and aligned best I could with hand power initially, then electric. After just a small bit of tweaking of the upper wheel, the blade was running very true on the crown of the wheel. Back to the bearings. I got them spinning as best is possible for some failing bearings. I installed and test cut a 5" board. I made the most beautiful piece of consistent 1/8" Sepele veneer! I haven't tried to make the "needed" cuts yet, but so far I'm extremely excited with the results. Just like you see on Youtube and other WW sites!

Sounds like your on the right path. I am leaning on using the resaw fence and the jig to set it up. I found while I can get a pretty straight cut by eye, I do occasionally wonder on the wrong side of the line and the fence prevents that.

 

[golfdad]

The Woodslicer Blade is the cats meow. I was using Timberwolf until we had the Intarsia class. Bill told meto try Woodslicer....Great advice

 

[gesiak]

The Woodslicer Blade is the cats meow. I was using Timberwolf until we had the Intarsia class. Bill told meto try Woodslicer....Great advice

I am planning on getting a Woodslicer blade for myself in the foreseeable future.

 

[Ken Massingale]

For folks about to buy a Woodslicer blade, I suggest calling woodcraftbands.com (a N.C. small company not associated with Woodcraft) and trying their resaw blade.
It is about 1/2 the cost of the Woodslicer and last significantly longer. The Woodslicer is a great blade but pricey and dulls quickly.

 

[sawman101]

I do quite a lot of re-sawing, on my Jet 14" band saw, designed for cutting up to 6". I installed riser blocks several years back, to increase the capacity to 12". I didn't have very good results from my efforts, using Timberwolf blades. I changed to the Wood Slicer, and immediately the results improved. I also watched Alex Snodgrass, from Carter, demonstrate using the band saw at the Wood Shows. His advice is invaluable. The same demo can be found on You Tube. Using his advice as a guideline, I can consistently produce quality re-sawn lumber.
Wood Slicer blades cost me $30+ for a blade. They produce a very smooth cut, almost equal to the planed side of the board. I am currently buying my blades from Hickory Saw And Tool. A 105", 3 tpi, 1/2" blade costs me $14.50. This economical blade produces a very accurate cut, but not quite as smooth as the Wood Slicer; that makes no difference though, as the board must be planed anyway, for the finish thickness. The point here is, the set up of the saw, when installing a blade, is critical. If you do it right, your results will be amazing. Blades do make a difference, but a blade installed, and properly adjusted, will produce the desired result.

 

[Michael Mathews]

I do quite a lot of re-sawing, on my Jet 14" band saw, designed for cutting up to 6". I installed riser blocks several years back, to increase the capacity to 12". I didn't have very good results from my efforts, using Timberwolf blades. I changed to the Wood Slicer, and immediately the results improved. I also watched Alex Snodgrass, from Carter, demonstrate using the band saw at the Wood Shows. His advice is invaluable. The same demo can be found on You Tube. Using his advice as a guideline, I can consistently produce quality re-sawn lumber.
Wood Slicer blades cost me $30+ for a blade. They produce a very smooth cut, almost equal to the planed side of the board. I am currently buying my blades from Hickory Saw And Tool. A 105", 3 tpi, 1/2" blade costs me $14.50. This economical blade produces a very accurate cut, but not quite as smooth as the Wood Slicer; that makes no difference though, as the board must be planed anyway, for the finish thickness. The point here is, the set up of the saw, when installing a blade, is critical. If you do it right, your results will be amazing. Blades do make a difference, but a blade installed, and properly adjusted, will produce the desired result.

I did some re-sawing last night for the first time on my rikon using a 1/2" wood slicer blade. One word to describe it... Awesome! Easy cutting, straight cuts, great finish, happy camper! Did I say... No drift! I used the stock fence without an auxiliary added and it was amazing. I scribed a line and set my fence, and the blade tracked perfectly. The boards were about 6" tall. Still a great first experience. Wood was poplar.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[Weekendworrior]

Several weeks back I needed to resaw some mahogany. First attempts on my Ridgid 14" bandsaw were dismal to say the least. Well, thanks to some help from Mike Davis, KenofCary and a few others I have it performing to an acceptable level. So to aid in consistant resaw cuts I made a jig to help set my Carter magnetic fence. It is just a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany about 12" long and 1.8" wide. I drew lines every 1/8th inch. Then made a 4" long kerf on each line.

To set the fence I then insert the blade into the kerf for the thickness I want to resaw about 2" in.


I then slide the fence to the jig matching the angle of the jig to the blade.


Every resaw cut I have done has the very consistant in thickness.

Thanks for looking.

What am I missing? I don't get it. ???

 

[sawman101]

What am I missing? I don't get it. ???

Bill, he uses the jig as a depth gage. Instead of using a ruler to measure from the blade to the fence, to get the proper width, he simply inserts the blade into the gage at the desired width for the cut, and slides his fence to it. That's my take on his post.

 

[gesiak]

What am I missing? I don't get it. ???

The guide assists in setting the thickness of the cut, but also aids in setting the fence to account for blade drift.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

I do a lot of resawing in my business of making inlay bandings. I find that Proper tension, blade drift, good bearings and guides are all somewhat important. However, the most important step, by far, is a SHARP blade. Once the blade gets dull, any of the other steps is futile. Resawing a hard wood like bloodwood or oak will dull a blade quickly, so if ur doing a lot of cutting on very hard woods, you need deep pockets! Also, I find the brand of the blade is secondary to sharpness. I agree the woodslicer is my choice, but it's pricey. I use Woodcraftbands blades for most jobs, and I switch to the woodslicer if the wood is softer and the desired result is more demanding. Just my opinion. Matt www.inlaybanding.com.