Bandsaw drift

[Keye]

I hated to even type "bandsaw drift". Back when I was making a lot of furniture I bought a 14" Delta. I must have cut everything free hand back then because I did not have a fence until I started back woodworking just a few months ago. I had not even heard the word drift until my cut made a beautiful arc and came out of the side of the wood. This is not what was supposed to happen.

I believe there are as many ways to address drift as there are ways to make BBQ sauce. I seem to have come to the conclusion there are many variations of 2 major paths. Address the fence or the top wheel. I would like to learn as much from you guys as possible. You know what works for you and why. Comments on the pros and cons of each way would also be helpful.

I read through some old threads and found a comment which I now can not find again. The point of the comment was to beware of the videos. The comment said he ended up with a cut tire because he located the blade as suggested in the video. He did not mention a name but it sure seems like it is an individual we have all heard or seen speak at length about the BS. I found this very interesting because with new tires and new blade I ended up with a cut all the way around the tire near the center. The blade I am using is 3/8"(cutting a lot of tight curves) 10 tpi(so I do not have to sand as much). I am cutting cherry.

 

[plcrawfo]

I essentially address the fence, but via the table. There is enough play in the trunnion holes on my 14" delta that i can loosen the bolts and rotate the table. This method allows you to keep the fence parallel to the miter slot (although ive never actually used the slot).

 

[tvrgeek]

Had drift issues. Tried all kinds of things. Then moved the blade back so the bottom of the gullet was on the crown, not the center of the wheel. Add a quality blade. A $25 blade worked vastly better than a $9 blade. POOF. No drift. Just kissed a bit if a hidden bit of a nail and Poof. Back to drift. New blade on order.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I have 2 band saws: 14" Delta and 14" Rikon. I keep a thin blade on the Delta and cut mostly curves, so drift is not an issue. The Rikon is for resawing and I use a 1/2" Woodslicer blade. The pic below shows how I address drift. Every time I install a new blade I check the drift, then adjust the fence to compensate. It is usually less than 1 degree.

 

[Brian Patterson]

I have 2 band saws: 14" Delta and 14" Rikon. I keep a thin blade on the Delta and cut mostly curves, so drift is not an issue. The Rikon is for resawing and I use a 1/2" Woodslicer blade. The pic below shows how I address drift. Every time I install a new blade I check the drift, then adjust the fence to compensate. It is usually less than 1 degree.

View attachment 194366

I need to upgrade my bandsaw fence to this design...thanks for the photo.

 

[NCGrimbo]

You may need to do a tune up to stop the drift. This is what I refer to when I need to do one:

 

[Rwe2156]

I essentially address the fence, but via the table. There is enough play in the trunnion holes on my 14" delta that i can loosen the bolts and rotate the table. This method allows you to keep the fence parallel to the miter slot (although ive never actually used the slot).

This has worked well for me. I learned this from a Michael Fortune video.

 

[JohnnyR]

When I think of drift, its not cutting on the desired line. You're description sounds like it may be cutting an arc, like a "C" in the wood. (There's probably a name for this). Usually caused by a dull blade and/or not enough tension. Plus, if you're using a 10 tpi blade on anything over an inch (or so) the gullets aren't deep enough to clear out the waste. I would also expect a lot of burning with Cherry if you're cutting a wide piece.

 

[Keye]

I actually saw the video where the table was moved. I did not mention this in my post because I had looked at so many I forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder. This way makes a lot of sense to me as a retired ME.

I have new tires coming today so I thought I would check to see if I have any play in the table top. I may have found at least part of my problem. All of the bolts were barely finger tight. I have never taken the top off so I am not sure if this is just vibration over a long period of time. I could buy one or two but all six does not make sense. Could it be high delta T over a period of time. Beats me.

I do have some play so I will give this way a try.

I am sure the video of the one guy who sets up his BS(for demonstration) really crazy. The blade is so loose it looks like a wet noodle, the guides have been pushed away, the blade is half way off the back of the wheel, and ….. I know he is trying to sell something(did not watch long enough to see what) but this sure makes me wonder.

There is very little space between the wheel and cover so it is hard for me to see the exact location of the blade. I was trying to place the gullet over the center of the tire. I am also using the Carter Stabilizer.

I am using the blades from the guy who retired from Vermont American. Sorry can not remember his name.