My first big post with pictures:-D
I am just about done with an assembly table for my shop. It's not motorized like DavidF's table but the height is adjustable using a leg assembly idea I borrowed from a colonial candle stand. The table is 4' X 7' X 4" thick.
It uses a beam box (torsion box) top made from 1/2" MDF grid and top/bottom skins and 3/4" MDF sides. Unlike the one David Marks built on his show where he cut short pieces for grid laterals to fit between the longitudinals, I made a large box joint-like jig. I cut 1/2" wide, 1 1/2" deep dados in the grid material so the lateral and longitudinal grid pieces would interlock.
Cutting grid material:
Close-up of grid cutting set-up (for 7" grid):
Completed grid pieces:
Grid test fit:
Assembling the grid- just glue, no brads:
Here is the table upside down with skins glued on and the recently installed legs. Leg tenons fit in reinforced pockets in the bottom of the table. The two-part legs extend via a ratcheting assembly. To increase the height of the table I just lift it up, one end at a time. I still need to add a release cable to the ratchet arms so I can lower the table.
Close-up of ratcheting leg assembly. In addition to setting the height, the ratchet assembly draws the leg sections tightly together.:
The legs also have mating dovetails to keep both halves aligned.
Close-up of Table at low height (25"). The table is strong, rigid, and flat. I haven't put a straightedge on it so I don't know the actual tolerances. The table is not sagging- the apparent sag in this pic is caused by the wide angle lens. I still need to add oak edge trim and a laminate top.
Table at full height (37"):
Link to thread on finished table
I am just about done with an assembly table for my shop. It's not motorized like DavidF's table but the height is adjustable using a leg assembly idea I borrowed from a colonial candle stand. The table is 4' X 7' X 4" thick.
It uses a beam box (torsion box) top made from 1/2" MDF grid and top/bottom skins and 3/4" MDF sides. Unlike the one David Marks built on his show where he cut short pieces for grid laterals to fit between the longitudinals, I made a large box joint-like jig. I cut 1/2" wide, 1 1/2" deep dados in the grid material so the lateral and longitudinal grid pieces would interlock.
Cutting grid material:
Close-up of grid cutting set-up (for 7" grid):
Completed grid pieces:
Grid test fit:
Assembling the grid- just glue, no brads:
Here is the table upside down with skins glued on and the recently installed legs. Leg tenons fit in reinforced pockets in the bottom of the table. The two-part legs extend via a ratcheting assembly. To increase the height of the table I just lift it up, one end at a time. I still need to add a release cable to the ratchet arms so I can lower the table.
Close-up of ratcheting leg assembly. In addition to setting the height, the ratchet assembly draws the leg sections tightly together.:
The legs also have mating dovetails to keep both halves aligned.
Close-up of Table at low height (25"). The table is strong, rigid, and flat. I haven't put a straightedge on it so I don't know the actual tolerances. The table is not sagging- the apparent sag in this pic is caused by the wide angle lens. I still need to add oak edge trim and a laminate top.
Table at full height (37"):
Link to thread on finished table