Assembly question

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lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
I am gluing together a four piece runner and rail for a cabinet I am making. I have a 1/2 inch dado cut in the front and rear and a 1/2 inch tongue to go into the dado. I have made a jig with four wooden courners for the frame to fit snuggly into while the glue dries. Because the wood I am using is walnut I have concerns about nails or brads. If the brads are only to hold it together until the glue cures then is it necessary to use the brads.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
If you can clamp and hold everything tightly together while the glue sets (about a 1/2 hour with Titebond 1) then there is no reason to use nails/brads at all. Very little of what I build has any metal in it at all. Nahm always likes to shoot a few brads to hold it while the glue dries, does he ever take them back out :eusa_thin :eusa_thin
HTH,
Dave:)
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
I agree with Dave - no brads! I don't care what Norm says. Just be sure you have is squared when you clamp it, let it dry 6 hrs. or overnight. You shouldn't have any problems.
Jim in Mayberry
 
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lwhughes149

New User
Lorraine
Thanks guys, I hope to be back in the shop tomorrow and I will leave the brads out. Would you brad the frame to the dado's on the inside frame? Norm also say to use brads there. I will check his book to remind myself as to where the glue goes because of the movement of the side panels. Thanks for the help.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Long grain to long grain glue-ups are stronger than the wood itself. If you can clamp it 'till the glue sets, then you won't need to brad it. I think Norm gets a kick-back from Porter-cable for every brad he shoots with their guns :-D :lol:

Dave:)
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
I had heard that Norm earns 7 figures for that NYWS, and TOH. His personal car is a Ferrarri. and he has an 'old' Ford pickup.
 
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