I've only made one, so can't offer much. But check with Badabing (Joe) (www.joeswoodstuff.com) and I'll bet he can offer something. The ones he has a very, very nice.
Doug, I have turned a couple of these stopper in the last week. I do not know how well they will hold up long term but they are a great idea. I would be glad to loan you the mandrel and bit if you buy some kits.
Hey Doug... I've made a few along the way. They're pretty straightforward. I use the chrome stoppers; although I've heard that the stainless ones hold up much better. As far as a mandrel goes, I use the screw mandrel that PSI sells. It seems to work ok. After drilling the screw hole, I create the threads with the appropriate sized tap instead of just using the mandrel threads. It makes the stopper thread in easier when you're done. As far as blanks go, anything is fine, but the laminated dowel is by far my most popular seller (upper right). Good luck and let me know if I can help.
Screw on mandrel, drill bit, stopper kit, and scrap wood, that's it. The hardest part is comming up with a nice design. When turning the plank, remember the last thing a person usually does is to hit the stopper tith their hand to make sure the cork is down tite. Points on top look really good but get their attention fast when hit.
Doug... I only started making stoppers about a couple months ago out of desperation for more stuff to use my lathe for. Wanted them to be a little more unique than some of the stopper patterns I saw inthe books so I drew up a couple patterns of my own. I too use the mandrel from PSI but don't thread the wood. I turn the mandrel and stainless piece directly into the wood I turned for a super tight fit. The bottom section of the stoppers from PSI unscrews itself via machine threads so you can put the stainless part, minus the wood into the dishwasher or sink to clean.
I have made quite a few stoppers. I used to use the chrome plates ones years ago but found that they would corrode after about 1 year of use. I now use the Niles stoppers. Ruth Niles also sells a mandrel that can fit right in your chuck.
The steps I use are:
1. Round stock between centers, putting a tenon on one end.
2. Chuck up the 6" (more or less) piece.
3. Turn shape and drill the hole in the wood and part off, leaving some wood to be turned off when screwed onto the mandrel.
4. Screw stopper on mandrel and finish.
5. Glue and screw stopper into wood.
6. Put finish on.
Doug, I'd be happy to talk you about 'em if you like. Just PM me and I'll send you my phone number. Basically, everyone offered some great information here. The only thing I'd add is that I use the Stainless Steel kits exclusively. I was getting the cone shaped kits from Arizona Silhouette, but recently picked up a few of the tear drop shaped ones from Craft Supplies (much less expensive). Either way you can't go wrong.
I usually drill the hole in the workpiece first, tap it with the threads (got a tap and die kit from Harbor Freight that works great), then turn it on the mandrel in a jacobs chuck. I find that using a live cup center in the tailstock helps keep the block stable up until the very end when I move it away and finish the top.
This is one I have just taken off of the lathe I enjoy these and I have sold 14 so far this year. If you turn a few have fun and let your mind just go wild and find your own designs in the wood