Another flooring question

[Hmerkle]

In another post @tooboos asked about where to get flooring... here:

https://ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?threads/right-place-to-buy-hardwood-flooring.73893/

I want to ask a "Chevy / Ford" question...

When laying flooring (while I am guessing there are a number of different "accepted" layouts) what is the "right" way to orient the "lengths' of the boards?
I assume it a bedroom, the accepted layout is parallel to the length of the bed...
f we proceed with flooring (removing the carpeting and laying... wood, engineered, etc.) I have a unique situation. I have a short hallway leading to the bedroom, so you would have 8+ feet of short lengths that I am afraid would look like a boat dock leading into the bedroom...
On the other hand, if I lay it the length of the hallway, then the boat dock would be on either side of the bed, between the bed and dressers on either side of the bed...

My final thought would be to set it at an angle, but know that will tend to use more material (some say 30% more??? is that true?)
Then the decision is which angle 30 degrees? 45 degrees? left forward or right forward? (remember the hallway????!!!)

 

[Whitfield]

At the risk of stating the obvious, I'd always heard that the crucial thing was working perpendicular to the floor joists. I've always installed accordingly.

 

[Hmerkle]

At the risk of stating the obvious, I'd always heard that the crucial thing was working perpendicular to the floor joists. I've always installed accordingly.

Does that matter, if you have underlayment / subfloor?

 

[Rwe2156]

If its standard nailed flooring, yes you have to go perpendicular to joist b/c you should nail into a joist, not the subfloor. Unless you can use glue. I was told this by an installer who did our addition.

With engineered flooring or vinyl, or if you're gluing it down it probably doesn't matter.

Are you doing it yourself?

 

[FredP]

You can change direction under the door.

 

[Hmerkle]

If its standard nailed flooring, yes you have to go perpendicular to joist b/c you should nail into a joist, not the subfloor. Unless you can use glue. I was told this by an installer who did our addition.

With engineered flooring or vinyl, or if you're gluing it down it probably doesn't matter.

Are you doing it yourself?

Probably doing it myself...
Will rent a defibrillator, and only then get some quotes... LOL

 

[Hmerkle]

You can change direction under the door.

the hallway and the bedroom have no door separation - the door is at the beginning of the hallway...

 

[Dee2]

Right way? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If the room layout is confusing, have some fun and do a herringbone pattern, LOL! [They asked me if I wanted to put in a pattern when I ordered my flooring.]

I run flooring with the long run of the room. For the current house, we used random widths, 3", 4" and 5". Under every door, I ran a 5" piece parallel to the door irrespective of which way the flooring was going to run.

The bedroom floor joists, since there was an addition years ago, ran in two different directions. I added blocking at 16" OC between joists that were parallel to the direction I was running flooring.

The manufacturer required cleats, not staples, 6"-8" apart for the flooring. I really didn't care if I hit a joist with the cleats at the density. Occasionally I put a cleat in the end of the flooring as well as the long run.

As always, YMMV.

 

[Hmerkle]

Apologies for the "rough and ready - but here is a sketch of the layout, not to scale, but more for "mind's eye" viewing and your suggestions...

 

[Hmerkle]

Right way? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If the room layout is confusing, have some fun and do a herringbone pattern, LOL! [They asked me if I wanted to put in a pattern when I ordered my flooring.]

I run flooring with the long run of the room. For the current house, we used random widths, 3", 4" and 5". Under every door, I ran a 5" piece parallel to the door irrespective of which way the flooring was going to run.

The bedroom floor joists, since there was an addition years ago, ran in two different directions. I added blocking at 16" OC between joists that were parallel to the direction I was running flooring.

The manufacturer required cleats, not staples, 6"-8" apart for the flooring. I really didn't care if I hit a joist with the cleats at the density. Occasionally I put a cleat in the end of the flooring as well as the long run.

As always, YMMV.

This is second floor, so without a remodel, (read a s-ton of work) I will not be getting into joist work...

 

[Dee2]

Looks like a chance to go in two directions.

I don't think I would worry too much about the joist direction. This is a low traffic area. If the floor squeaks, treat it with talc from the pool hall supply.

 

[Hmerkle]

Looks like a chance to go in two directions.

I don't think I would worry too much about the joist direction. This is a low traffic area. If the floor squeaks, treat it with talc from the pool hall supply.

Good thought, but my fear was that it would look... well...
look like we couldn't decide! LOL

 

[Dee2]

What if you 'boxed' the hall and then 'boxed' the bedroom. I mean, run 2-5 widths around each perimeter and then did a unidirectional fill inside the created fields?

 

[Hmerkle]

What if you 'boxed' the hall and then 'boxed' the bedroom. I mean, run 2-5 widths around each perimeter and then did a unidirectional fill inside the created fields?

Thank you, GREAT idea!
Another option, but really helpful - allowing the board length to run in the "correct' direction!
Ona another thought, the box could even be a "feature" as in a lighter wood or "Feature-ring" (excuse my lack of flooring terminology)

 

[kserdar]

In my experience (which is very little) - Engineered wood is designed to join in one direction only.
They could have specialty pieces to create the mentioned patterns ... but I would check first ... could be increased cost.

 

[Hmerkle]

In my experience (which is very little) - Engineered wood is designed to join in one direction only.
They could have specialty pieces to create the mentioned patterns ... but I would check first ... could be increased cost.

Yes, you would probably have to purchase specialty parts or cut a tongue or groove to match directional change!

Thank you, good caution to add to the mix...

 

[Dee2]

I use(d) the Bosch tongue/groove router bit.

 

[Graywolf]

This is an instance where there is a floor system is running in two different directions. So when this pattern was installed any boards running parallel to the floor system were glued and nailed, perpendicular were just nailed. You have lots of opportunity with your space. Most hardwood suppliers have additional splines for reversing or turning the direction of the flooring.

 

[JimD]

My current house has only hardwood and ceramic flooring. I've changed a lot of things - moved a hallway, created another doorway to the dining room, removed a wood stove - that resulted in changes to the flooring. I've also added about 600ft2 and put pre-finished hickory in that area. The rest of the floor is white oak.

I used cleats when I put my flooring in but after that I pulled some flooring that was installed with staples. I also have removed oak flooring installed with cleats. Staples definitely hold a lot better than cleats. I think they both work but staples are cheaper, easier to find in my area, and hold better. So if I put more in it will be with staples.

My other unsolicited advice is the HF flooring nailer works fine and was cheaper for me than renting one. I've loaned it out once too and it leaks a bit now but still works fine.

But to your point, I think it is an appearance thing. I would install it along the length of the hallway and I think that will look fine in the bedroom. But if you or your family think the other way is better, I see no reason to avoid it. It will mean more cutting but otherwise I don't see an impact other than appearance. My logic for along the hall is I don't think the direction will look odd either way in the bedroom but I think the hallway done the short direction would look odd. But that is just me.

In the main area I installed the hickory in I went across the floor joists but that was because the floor joists are a little small for the span and I wanted to spread the load out. I don't see the logic for trying to hit the floor joists with your fasteners. Normally they are 2 inches long and they go in at an angle. So penetration into a floor joist would be minimal. They might hold a little better into a joist but I don't remember anything like that in the old oak I removed. Cleats into plywood subfloor came out pretty easy and I salvaged a lot of that flooring for patching other areas. Staples into plywood would not hardly come out and I tore up the flooring getting it out. I salvaged none of it. I don't think the floor joist direction really matters.

 

[Dee2]

And splines are easy to make!! Especially when you see what LL wants for them. I may have some left over.