angled cuts

[stal023]

How do you get the 15 degree cuts in the ribs for this jig? I'm looking for the cheapest, easiest way to do it. I do not have a bandsaw (I saw a post of someone doing it this way), however I do have a router, router table, table saw....

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-planer-sled-for-milling-lumber.aspx

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

You should be able to do this using the miter gauge on your tablesaw.

 

[SubGuy]

Or a Miter Saw and chisel

 

[redknife]

Agree with above for the angle cut wedges. For the complementary angled grooves in the cross pieces, I would use a cross cut sled on the table saw (dado) and clamp the cross piece on top of some of the angle cut wedges.

 

[smallboat]

Seems like you could cut the wedges using the miter gauge and then use two of those wedges to tilt the cross rib to 15deg (lift the leading edge) and make the slot cut(s).
I would probably make a little mini sled to keep everything aligned and just push it through with the miter gauge.

something like this

or just cut with a back saw and chisel out the slot
you'll be pretty good at it by the time you're finished!

 

[Skymaster]

that link takes me to a planer sled. I am not clear as to what you are trying to achieve, can you clarify or PM me, maybe I can figure out how. Do you have a jointer?

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

that link takes me to a planer sled. I am not clear as to what you are trying to achieve, can you clarify or PM me, maybe I can figure out how. Do you have a jointer?

The wedges are used as a component in the planer sled. I believe he is building the planer sled in the video.

 

[Skymaster]

I see this as a tablesaw or jointer mission. If you wanted to go sled and wedges a planer wood do it also

 

[Gotcha6]

I like Smallboat's idea using either a router or table saw (RAS too). Since you say you have both, it should be fairly easy with a miter fence. The router affords you avoiding the inconvenience of setting up a dado or multiple passes.

 

[bluedawg76]

personally I think that planer sled is way overkill. You can make one much simpler using a 4-6 ft piece of 12" wide melamine shelf material w/ a 1/2" cleat screwed into the front. Hot glue can secure the wood and prevent any rocking of the board and scrapes off of the sled and board easily when you're done. It's not in a FWW video b/c it's easy. JMTCW. As far as making wedges. Power tool method: I'd make a small taper jig for the TS. BS would be preferred due to the size, but a TS would work fine as well. Just need to secure the pieces carefully (i.e. not w/ your fingers). A router or jointer would seem awfully dangerous for this. Hand tool: Probably faster and easier especially, since these don't have to be exact angles. Mark the line, clamp the piece vertically in a vise, saw it half way down, flip it and finish the cut. cleanup w/ a wide chisel or plane. Far less time than any jig building. Small panel (hand) saw from the borg would do it.

 

[smallboat]

I don't think the OP is confused about making wedges.
It's the matching angled slots that were the question.

The video did inspire me to add a planer sled to my list of projects.
I just spent a lot of time flattening twisted boards, sled would have come in handy.
I will probably start out somewhere between a shelf and hot glue and the one in the video.
That sort of design you can add the complexity if/when you know you need it.

I'd also like to use the sled to plane thinner than the minimum my machine allows.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I'd make as many 15 deg shapes as needed for the support block ends, and an equal number for the movable wedges. I'd then glue them to the ends of the support blocks. Then glue SQUARE PIECEs to the ends of that. Trim everything flush and glue the sandpaper on top of that assembly.

All that said, I wouldn't waste my time making that sled in the first place. I find that a powered handheld planner and a belt sander will get me there quicker.

 

[stal023]

I don't think the OP is confused about making wedges.
It's the matching angled slots that were the question.

The video did inspire me to add a planer sled to my list of projects.
I just spent a lot of time flattening twisted boards, sled would have come in handy.
I will probably start out somewhere between a shelf and hot glue and the one in the video.
That sort of design you can add the complexity if/when you know you need it.

I'd also like to use the sled to plane thinner than the minimum my machine allows.

I want to make the sled and not use the glue method because I plan on using this alot. I don't have a jointer and this is the only way I know how to mill my own wood using just a planer. And you are correct, I am not confused about making the wedges. Just the angled slots.

 

[smallboat]

A fixture Joe doesn't have a use for!
Didn't see that coming.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Over the years, I've seen hundreds of jigs that I wouldn't waste my time making. And the only jig I can remember making "per plan" was Wood Magazine's 'Universal Tablesaw Jig'.

Last month I helped a WWr build a box joint jig from Woodsmith. I told him at first glance, it had an inherent weakness but a simple modification to the plan would make it marvelous! I even made one for myself.

 

[bluedawg76]

i use the melamine sled I made all the time. I'm sure the FWW sled will do a great job, I just prefer to spend my shop time working on my projects rather than building jigs.

 

[Henry W]

A fixture Joe doesn't have a use for!
Didn't see that coming.

:gar-Bi:gar-La;:rotflm:

Henry

 

[Jeff]

I don't think that we're talking about a lot of bf for the OP. ???

He'll have to buy the components, make the jig, and finally get down to work if all works satisfactorily. It's cheaper and expedient to buy the wood already surfaced at S3S or S4S from folks that already have the heavy equipment made for the same end point. It's probably more accurate than a homemade adjustable jig for large pieces.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

I don't think that we're talking about a lot of bf for the OP. ???
He'll have to buy the components, make the jig, and finally get down to work if all works satisfactorily. It's cheaper and expedient to buy the wood already surfaced at S3S or S4S from folks that already have the heavy equipment made for the same end point. It's probably more accurate than a homemade adjustable jig for large pieces.

Assuming they stay flat, which is a big if.

 

[stal023]

Seems like you could cut the wedges using the miter gauge and then use two of those wedges to tilt the cross rib to 15deg (lift the leading edge) and make the slot cut(s).
I would probably make a little mini sled to keep everything aligned and just push it through with the miter gauge.

something like thisView attachment 11021

or just cut with a back saw and chisel out the slot
you'll be pretty good at it by the time you're finished!

I did a similar idea. Put up a flat board against my miter gauge and cut another piece of wood at a 15 degree angle length wise. Laid that flat against the table saw and the miter gauge fence, set my piece of wood on top, and cut away. I took a photo on my phone and will upload when I get a chance.