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tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Picked up the Veritas guide set ( large and small, flat and cambered)
It actually works. To my satisfaction even. Have to watch the clamp is snug enough. ( I wonder if some 600 glued inside would be a fix)
So, I will assess , sort and make a huge pile of the many many other things I have tried.
Keeping: DMT course (320-ish) diamond plate, 600/1200 plate
Keeping my MDF green/yellow strop
Keeping the Wolverine jig, and will be expanding it with my own rests and adapters ( Rikon slow speed SOP) Will move to CBN wheels eventually
For now, stuck with "scary" but will most likely move to Shapton as I use up paper, which does not take long. I actually found paper is too "spongy" and can cause rounded edges. Same problem with leather strops. Fine for final bevel, but not good on the backs.
Old Haringa is now OBE. Jointer knife holder OBE. Eclipse jig was never consistent.
Several setup and measurement gigs never were much help. Digital protractor and bits of cut up Masonite seem to fill the bill.
Keeping my Ak. black and Spyderco stones for now. May be good for little things.
DrillSharp is going. I prefer split point.
M-Power jig is slick, but may now be redundant. As I went to Byrd heads on the jointer and planer, don't need the Makita. Actually the 2-blade block on paper worked better for me anyway.
I have not taken on my carving chisels. It could be I can find use for the Makita wet wheel and Workshop for them.
I have mastered scissors using the 1200 plate and little hand held diamond tabs. Getting darn good on rip saws. Pretty good on chisels and irons. Getting there on my spoke shave and draw knife. Scrapers were never a problem. Turning tools, well that needs work.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I have had the Veritas Mark II guide for several years, along with the Dia-Sharp diamond plates, and it has greatly sped up my ability to keep plane blades sharp. Don't know if you have picked up on the fine adjustment on the roller knob that lets you adjust up a bit for the final edge, but it really allows reestablishing the secondary bevel when in a hurry. I write the primary and secondary bevel setting on the back of the plane iron (felt tip pen), and put a +1, +2 etc if I have used the fine adjustment. Makes it very easy to throw in the iron and set the guide to the previous settings for a quick honing when the strop no longer is effective.

Although I normally use 25 for the primary bevel, I may change the secondary for those irons that chip too easily, or dull too quickly.

Best lubricant I have found for the Dia-Sharps is windex without the ammonia. Keeps the stones clean and doesn't cause rust.

Still looking for a good honing guide for chisels that will hold a tapered chisel securely. Best I have found so far is the Trend with the wide roller, but it still loosens on the tapered ones.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I too have been using Windex, but not on the diamonds Leaving them dry. I have been looking for some light but not highly volatile fluid.

Have you looked at the L-N jig? They have several sets of jaws. I have a couple chisels that are not strait.

I have been going from 3000 paper to strop by hand, but now may re-asses that.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
O keep forgetting to pick up some Krud-Cutter to try on the diamonds. Some claim it is perfect. Trend makes something but very expensive.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
O keep forgetting to pick up some Krud-Cutter to try on the diamonds. Some claim it is perfect. Trend makes something but very expensive.
I thought about mixing alcohol with mineral oil. Need to try that and work on the proportions to get it right.
 

Scott H

Scott
User
Best lubricant I have found for the Dia-Sharps is windex without the ammonia. Keeps the stones clean and doesn't cause rust.

This has worked very well for me too. I am currently using Invisible Glass but whatever the cheapest glass cleaner from the auto store works too. The automotive glass cleaners don't have ammonia in them because it attacks trim or something, I am told.
 

Scott H

Scott
User
So, why no ammonia? No plastic trim to damage.
I think it functions fine as far as sharpening goes regardless of ammonia, but if you are using it in an enclosed space it smells less offensive and you aren't inhaling any ammonia.
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
I’ve been using Simple Green for years, it’s biodegradable and not harmful to the human body. Oh and no rust on the stones.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
So, why no ammonia? No plastic trim to damage.
When I first heard about using it, the poster said "without ammonia", so that is what I tried (it was also what I had on hand, LOL). It was my thought, perhaps mistaken, that ammonia being a strong oxidizer may contribute to rusting. I have not tried it with ammonia. Just recommending what I know works well.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Continuing redoing various blades. Getting flatter backs using the course DMT/600/1200/strop instead of paper on glass. I had used the WorkShop to flatten but seems the edges were rolled, so lots of work to fix. Anyway, I got both my Sears block and Taylor reabate to trim .001. I think I have finally found my formula. May add a 2000 diamond.

Rotating the cam on the Veritas is really slick. Just right and repeatable.

Now happy with the Taylor, but it sure took a lot of work on the iron. Body was flat and square though. Just the iron was really off flat and pretty deep scoring. Improved the Sears block by polishing the inside of the adjustment fork so I don't have to loosen the cap as much. Added a brass washer on the cap knob. Easier to adjust and I think clamps tighter as it was not slipping any more.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Don't know the difference, but Simple Green seems to work much better than Windex. Floats the swarf better but not quite as slick. Anyway, seems to cut faster. Using it all the way to the 8000 film.

Bit the bullet and ordered some new DMT plates. Extra course and extra extra fine. I think going 1/3 in particle size is a reasonable step.

I went to sharpen some of my Freud carving tools and they won't work in the Veritas as they are tapered in both directions, and a bit inconsistent. Real pain trying to get them useable as the grinds were so poor. Finally got a few to good nick and they cut fine, but the labor is excessive. I have a V gouge and the inner and outer flanks are not ground parallel. The regular gouges were round inside so I was able to get them to a polish using dowels, but the outsides were lobed oddly so hard to get an even rotation on a stone. I also got a new blade for the old Stanley scraper and it is a parallelogram!

Brake cleaner seems to work the best cleaning the glue off my glass plate.

Anyway, the walnut is getting close to useable, so I guess some shadow boxes will be next. Re-read some of Krenov books for inspiration. I think I can trust my tools enough to jump in way over my head again.
 

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