Anchorseal

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MikeH

New User
Mike
Does anyone in Charlotte or better yet North Charlotte have any Anchorseal that I can use to seal the top and bottom of the log I'm putting my anvil on?
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
Mike, I will check to see what I have when I get home tonight and let you know.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Anyone know What's the difference between the classic and #2 Hybrid? Ancorseal used to have a summer and winter blend. I always bought the winter blend because it did not freeze in the winter months. But I don't see the winter blend available anymore - only classic and #2 hybrid.

http://uccoatings.com/product-catalog/

Thanks
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Anyone know What's the difference between the classic and #2 Hybrid?

The differences are subtle and about as clear as mud to me. They're all wax emulsions in water with some other gobbledy-gook marketing additives.

Read the introductory 2 paragraphs here. Less petroleum based products = less paraffin wax so it's "greener" and more environmentally friendly.

http://uccoatings.com/products/anchorseal-2-2/

The winter formulas contained methanol (toxic) or propylene glycol (used to winterize RV water systems).
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
A friend of mine is in the exotic lumber import business, selling to the furniture industry. He also was a kiln operator at one time. His advise was to use any latex paint as that would work just as well as Anchor Seal. His advise, not mine. I've used Anchor Seal on the boards that I air dry in the pole barn. as they were always fresh from the mill. I do have some Anchor Seal on hand, and you are quite welcome to use it. Now to PE it to you Mike, I live just SW of Newton, about 3 miles from US 321.
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
Hey. Mike. I have 3/4 of a gallon of Sealtite, End Grain Sealer from Klingspors. If you would like to use it - send a PM and we will hook up.
 

Charlottend

New User
Brian
I know a guy that has some up off of Rozelles Ferry that I may be able to put you in touch with if nothing else works out.
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
I may have some, Mike. BUT, if that's a gum stump, you prolly can't split it with a powder wedge!!

:rotflm:
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Mike, will the log section be used indoors or outside? If the latter, I would especially suggest a petroleum oil based preservative, instead of Anchorseal.

I've been through three white oak log sections in the past 16 years for my 300 lb anvil. It sits under a roof but is on top of dirt and gravel. The last stump has received multiple soakings in used automatic transmission oil (both ends) and thus far it has lasted the best. I prefer the ATF because it does not leave the dirty residue that used engine oil does. If you opt for used engine oil, be sure to source some that was drained from diesel engines, as it does not contain the carcinogenic byproducts that the used gasoline engine oil does.

The enemy of the stump longevity is bugs and rot, and Anchorseal won't stop either. If not used ATF, find something that will soak in, preserve the log and kill any bugs, such as diesel, kerosene, etc. Turpentine is another (albeit expensive) option and its smell is reminiscent of the old feed stores that used it for a floor sealer.
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
Sounds like you're squared away Mike. I make my own out of Gulfwax paraffin (Canning/Freezing section of your grocery store ~$2.50 for 4 blocks) and mineral spirits. Shave a block of Gulfwax into a metal can and add ~8oz of MS and let it sit for a few hours. Add more MS if it's too thick or add a little Gulfwax if it's too thick. Aim for a milk consistency.
 

MikeH

New User
Mike
Mike, will the log section be used indoors or outside? If the latter, I would especially suggest a petroleum oil based preservative, instead of Anchorseal.

I've been through three white oak log sections in the past 16 years for my 300 lb anvil. It sits under a roof but is on top of dirt and gravel. The last stump has received multiple soakings in used automatic transmission oil (both ends) and thus far it has lasted the best. I prefer the ATF because it does not leave the dirty residue that used engine oil does. If you opt for used engine oil, be sure to source some that was drained from diesel engines, as it does not contain the carcinogenic byproducts that the used gasoline engine oil does.

The enemy of the stump longevity is bugs and rot, and Anchorseal won't stop either. If not used ATF, find something that will soak in, preserve the log and kill any bugs, such as diesel, kerosene, etc. Turpentine is another (albeit expensive) option and its smell is reminiscent of the old feed stores that used it for a floor sealer.

Scott,
Thanks for the advice. Its going to be inside in the garage. I'm jealous that you have a 300lb anvil. Oh and by the way..... HAPPY BIRTHDAY! :eusa_danc
 
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