Air piping for shop

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Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
After a recommendation by Woodguy1975 I decided to install this system in my new shop. I purchased the "Master Kit" and installed it. I was rather skeptical that the push on fitting would work without leaking air. I was wrong. They do not leak. The system is super easy to install. If you change your mind or make a mistake you can remove the fittings with just a push on the fitting to release it. The kit comes with a cutter that you should use to cut the pipe.

I ran two main lines in my shop from my air compressor that is located in the barn half of my shop. I ran the lines 10' high on the walls and then did a drop drown to about 5' for the air outlets. Each outlet has a bleed valve to bleed off any moisture in the lines. You can put the lines in the wall but I did not put mine inside the wall. I am really please with the system.

Thanks Woodguy1975 for recommending this system.
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
I would say that the HF setup is way too small diameter wise (3/8 fittings). The air is going to get lost :gar-Bi by the time it gets to the tool after going through those small fittings. Even if you build a system with 3/4" tubing the fittings (probably 1/2" ID) severely restrict the air and you will have problems with any high volume tools.

And PLEASE, don't anyone mention making a system out of PVC.:kamahlitu:kamahlitu:kamahlituI know people do but, but, but...
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
It sure it is much easier to run that stuff. The solenoid valves I got for my autogates all came with push connectors. They work well.

I looked at that stuff and PEX but the working pressure was listed as only 150 psi. I have a 175 psi compressor so ended up going with copper.
 

Bryan S

Bryan
Corporate Member
When I serviced car washes I used the pushlock fittings and loved them, had very few problems with leaking assymbly was quickand easy They dont always come apart as easy as thet are supposed to but the system works good. :icon_thum
 

thrytis

New User
Eric
Both the HF and the Rapid Air system use 1/2" OD tubing. I imagine most people with high volume requirements would install a metal pipe system, but the nylon tube systems probably would be sufficient for the typical home woodworker.
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
Welcome dude! When I did my calculations I found that 1/2" would carry enough air for any compressor anyone with a home woodshop would run. Unless you have crazy run lengths 1/2" is perfect. It looks like HF just copied the system. Those look a lot like Festo filttings.

I can't wait to get going on my new shop and get back to thinking about wood, tools and sawdust. :)

Good Luck,

John
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
Couple of things to remember with flexible piping. You don't want any dips in horizontal runs because they will accumulate moisture. No matter what you end up running you want everything sloped down hill to some drainage mechanism. This is hard for a woodworker to do since 'crooked' isn't in our vocabulary.:no:

At the bottom of each of your vertical runs to the tools put the connector some distance above the bottom end of the pipe (6"+??) and put a drain valve on the very bottom so you can drain the line periodically.

If at all possible try to cool the air right after it leaves the compressor and before it gets into the piping system. Basically you want the air to traverse some big vertical metal piping runs (drain at bottom) before entering the horizontal distribution system.

My last shop I piped the right way. The shop I have now just has air hose all over the floor. Go figure.:confused_
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Good post Splinter.

I've been hearing about using PEX for air piping for years - nice that somebody put a kit together (and then HF copied them :no:)

-Mark
 
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