Advice on finishing pine for outdoor use...

[gsalls]

So I'm designing an outdoor pub table and I'm about to make a pine prototype. It's going to be full scale and there's a lot of work involved in the joinery so I intend on using it. I'm fully aware of pine's susceptibility to rot outdoors so I'm not expecting a lifetime of service. However, I'd like to get a few good years out of it. I don't particularly want to use poly or another film finish because re-finishing is kind of a nightmare. I'm leaning toward using a less protective product, some sort of simple oil perhaps. I'm fine with re-applying as needed. Any thoughts?

 

[Jeff]

Why a pub table for outdoor use? Will you eventually make another one from a more durable outdoor wood like teak, cypress, or white oak?

A top quality marine spar varnish is appropriate and is a better choice for outdoor wood. It's flexible and expands and contracts with the wood without cracking and peeling . Spar varnish is typically used in the wood boat industry. BTW, don't use the lower quality spar varnishes from the big box stores. Epifanes is a top quality spar varnish.

Jamestown Distributors

www.jamestowndistributors.com

Difference Between Spar Varnish and Regular Varnish?

Not all varnishes are created equal!

www.thewoodwhisperer.com

 

[AllanD]

I agree that Epiphanes is the best varnish. But for pine or most woods outdoors there is one word to think about: paint.
Not sure how furniture-like you want this to be but I see more and more outdoor furniture made with many colors of composite decking. Some are very colorful but not cheap.

 

[gsalls]

Why a pub table for outdoor use? Will you eventually make another one from a more durable outdoor wood like teak, cypress, or white oak?

A top quality marine spar varnish is appropriate and is a better choice for outdoor wood. It's flexible and expands and contracts with the wood without cracking and peeling . Spar varnish is typically used in the wood boat industry. BTW, don't use the lower quality spar varnishes from the big box stores. Epifanes is a top quality spar varnish.

Jamestown Distributors

www.jamestowndistributors.com

Difference Between Spar Varnish and Regular Varnish?

Not all varnishes are created equal!

www.thewoodwhisperer.com

Yes, once I get the kinks worked out I’d like to make a more quality version to offer for sale. I’ve personally never used the spar varnish, but am aware that it is probably the most protective finish for outdoors. I’ll have to look into it a little more. Thanks for your input!

 

[gsalls]

I agree that Epiphanes is the best varnish. But for pine or most woods outdoors there is one word to think about: paint.
Not sure how furniture-like you want this to be but I see more and more outdoor furniture made with many colors of composite decking. Some are very colorful but not cheap.

I have a deep and somewhat unfounded aversion toward paint on wood. Although I have seen some really nice painted pieces, I don’t think it’s for me. But I appreciate your thoughts on it!

 

[Berta]

Paint or deck stain. I stand the legs of my outdoor stuff in shallow “dishes” to soak it up. My lawn furniture lasted for about 8 years. Six of that was in the NE Ohio weather. Including winter. I used Behr translucent deck stain. It was pine.

 

[gsalls]

Paint or deck stain. I stand the legs of my outdoor stuff in shallow “dishes” to soak it up. My lawn furniture lasted for about 8 years. Six of that was in the NE Ohio weather. Including winter. I used Behr translucent deck stain. It was pine.

Thanks. That's good information to consider..

 

[FlyingRon]

Sikkens Cetol Door and Window. It's available in clear and a few tints. It takes three coats applied 24 hour apart, but it is by far the best transparent outdoor finish I have ever used.

The boat to the left is finished in Interlux Schooner.

 

[JimD]

Southern Yellow Pine is actually better outdoors than many woods and certainly most if not all other softwoods. But eastern white pine is not nearly as rot resistant. And Spruce is far worse than even white pine. So if you want this to last, I would start with using southern yellow pine.

Best would be pressure treated but what you can easily buy is very wet and thus not suitable for most joints. Sometimes I have some that hangs around long enough to get dry and then it works like other softwood. But it does not rot. I have chairs on my dock that are made of pressure treated that has been painted that are sound despite the fact that the paint is coming off. It isn't pretty - paint improves it - but it works well outside.

If you use regular SYP, then the areas that touch the ground or patio or deck will end up unfinished. it will rub off or moisture will get under it. Maybe if you can get some oil into it or something it can still be protected. That is the area I would be most concerned about. A foot made of pressure treated that is painted would really help longevity if it could be worked into the design.

 

[gsalls]

Southern Yellow Pine is actually better outdoors than many woods and certainly most if not all other softwoods. But eastern white pine is not nearly as rot resistant. And Spruce is far worse than even white pine. So if you want this to last, I would start with using southern yellow pine.

Best would be pressure treated but what you can easily buy is very wet and thus not suitable for most joints. Sometimes I have some that hangs around long enough to get dry and then it works like other softwood. But it does not rot. I have chairs on my dock that are made of pressure treated that has been painted that are sound despite the fact that the paint is coming off. It isn't pretty - paint improves it - but it works well outside.

If you use regular SYP, then the areas that touch the ground or patio or deck will end up unfinished. it will rub off or moisture will get under it. Maybe if you can get some oil into it or something it can still be protected. That is the area I would be most concerned about. A foot made of pressure treated that is painted would really help longevity if it could be worked into the design.

Thanks, yes I am using SYP. Regular not treated. I'm leaning toward simply using some oil, although I'm still unsure. Perhaps teak oil? My thought is that in the event that this actually survives a few years (which I suspect it will), I really don't ever want to have to strip off an old finish to rejuvenate. I would much rather apply more oil as needed.

 

[Jeff]

Teak oil is not from teak wood. It's a generic type name for an oil finish. See Watco Teak Oil at Lowe's or HD. This one is from Jamestown Distributors.

TotalBoat Teak Oil For Wood - Preserves & Protects Wood

TotalBoat Wood Teak Oil preserves and protects wood. Golden colored oil penetrates the grain to preserve its beauty. Perfect for boats & outdoor furniture.

www.totalboat.com

 

[gsalls]

Sikkens Cetol Door and Window. It's available in clear and a few tints. It takes three coats applied 24 hour apart, but it is by far the best transparent outdoor finish I have ever used.

The boat to the left is finished in Interlux Schooner.

I hadn't considered Sikkens. I looked into it and they recommend either 3 coats of the Cetol 1, or a coat of the Cetol SDR. I'm leaning toward the SDR, primarily because of the maintenance schedule. My concern is blotching. I don't think a washcoat is wise for this type of finish. Do you find that to be a problem?

 

[red]

Sikkens is great stuff. It's what I used to protect my log home which is pine D logs. You can't go wrong using it.

Red

 

[Gofor]

Many products labelled "Teak Oil" are actually wipe-on varnish mixes, and will lift and peel after a while. You will need to look carefully at the ingredients.

 

[FlyingRon]

I've got tons of pine doors and plywood and wood trim done in Cetol outside. I've not noticed any issues.

 

[Tarhead]

You can get untinted paint from a real paint store. It works and holds up like paint but is clear.