I have a Ridgid tablesaw with no manual. Can someone explain how to adjust the fence to keep it straight. When I measure the fence to the blade from end to end it isn't the same. When I try to rip a piece of hardwood the wood seems to bind making me unconfortable so I find myself ripping my wood on the bandsaw instead. Thanks in advance. Can I download a manual from the company.
Adjustments for Ridgid tablesaw
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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- adjustments ridgid tablesaw
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Lorraine,
Try here:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Table-Saw-Manual/index.htm
I'm not sure which is your model, but I opened the one for the TS2412 and looked at the fence alignment instructions. It looks ot be fairly well written and it should be easy to follow.
Try here:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Table-Saw-Manual/index.htm
I'm not sure which is your model, but I opened the one for the TS2412 and looked at the fence alignment instructions. It looks ot be fairly well written and it should be easy to follow.
Also, I don't know how you're set up as far as measuring devices, but I used one of these to set up my saw.
It was very helpful. I managed to get my slots, blade and fence all to within a few thousanths. That Grizzly special is a pretty good price too.
It was very helpful. I managed to get my slots, blade and fence all to within a few thousanths. That Grizzly special is a pretty good price too.
lwhughes149 said:
PLEASE adjust your fence. The situation that you describe is fuel for kick-back. The back of the fence should be at least the same distance from the blade as the front of the fence, never closer. That will push the piece being cut into the teeth on the back of the blade which are travelling upwards and can lift the wood and throw it back at you in the blink of an eye.
Dave
DaveO said:PLEASE adjust your fence. The situation that you describe is fuel for kick-back. The back of the fence should be at least the same distance from the blade as the front of the fence, never closer. That will push the piece being cut into the teeth on the back of the blade which are travelling upwards and can lift the wood and throw it back at you in the blink of an eye.
Dave
I would actually go +5th at the back at least. a) to avoid the situation you describe Dave and b) so that there is less chance of the newly cut edge just being touched by the blade and spoiling the edge.
Chris, I wouldn't know where to start using the instrument you I showed me. Something else to learn about.
First of all guys let me say if it doesn't feel right I don't do it. The tablesaw has always made me a bit uneasy so when the blade seems to struggle with a piece of hardwood I quickly found another way to rip a board. I will rip the board down to size with my bandsaw so I can use the jointer to get it ready for planing. Once I have it planed to size I will joint one side and use that to measure and even amount mark the board with two lines and cut between the two lines and joint to the line that will give me my needed measurement. 99% of the time it works very well. It can be time consuming and using the tablesaw for ripping would be best probably. I once thought maybe my blade was getting dull and that was the reason the machine seemed to struggle but if I have a reason to use my sled and cut down a panel it works great so I think the problem is somewhere else. I know the fence needs adjustments so I will go to the manual that is on line and see what I can do. Don't worry, I move on the side of caution and will be careful. Thanks for the help.
First of all guys let me say if it doesn't feel right I don't do it. The tablesaw has always made me a bit uneasy so when the blade seems to struggle with a piece of hardwood I quickly found another way to rip a board. I will rip the board down to size with my bandsaw so I can use the jointer to get it ready for planing. Once I have it planed to size I will joint one side and use that to measure and even amount mark the board with two lines and cut between the two lines and joint to the line that will give me my needed measurement. 99% of the time it works very well. It can be time consuming and using the tablesaw for ripping would be best probably. I once thought maybe my blade was getting dull and that was the reason the machine seemed to struggle but if I have a reason to use my sled and cut down a panel it works great so I think the problem is somewhere else. I know the fence needs adjustments so I will go to the manual that is on line and see what I can do. Don't worry, I move on the side of caution and will be careful. Thanks for the help.
Dave,thanks for the suggestion. I just went over the manual I downloaded and plan to look at the fence tomorrow. I will take a picture and post it. I would love to use the machine more. I use it for dado's mostly and it works well there. Watch for the post and thanks.
I am about to try and learn something new thanks to Monty. I have two pics in the gallery of the Ridgid tablesaw fence. As stated before I know it isn't lined up so I am seeking help from anyone who would reply. If I fail in my attempt to post the pics with this post please someone step in and move them for me. Thanks in advance for any help provided. Lorraine
Problem Monty, tried to post pic, stated image was too large. Help.
http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/files/4/1/4/100_2340_420455.JPG
Problem Monty, tried to post pic, stated image was too large. Help.
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Refer to your manual over anything I say of course as I am just looking at a photo, but that fence looks to adjust by the 4 screws on top.
I'd lock it, loosen the screws enough to move the far end of the fence until it is at least parallel with the blade, tighten the screws, unlock it, move it around, recheck it a few times.
I'd lock it, loosen the screws enough to move the far end of the fence until it is at least parallel with the blade, tighten the screws, unlock it, move it around, recheck it a few times.
Lorraine,
As far as you know, is the blade parallel with the miter slots? If not, that's step #1. The procedure for alligning the blade with the table top is discussed in some detail in the manual that I linked to above.
As far as aligning the fence itself with the blade, Jonz is right on his comment. The 4 screws on top are loosened and then the fence is adjusted. That procedure is also discussed in the manual.
As far as you know, is the blade parallel with the miter slots? If not, that's step #1. The procedure for alligning the blade with the table top is discussed in some detail in the manual that I linked to above.
As far as aligning the fence itself with the blade, Jonz is right on his comment. The 4 screws on top are loosened and then the fence is adjusted. That procedure is also discussed in the manual.
Lorraine,
I have a RIGID TS3650. The following is from my owners emanual which used in settingup my TS.
Quote
Rip Fence Alignment Adjustment
WARNING: A misaligned fence can cause kickbacks and jams. To reduce the risk of injury, follow these instructions until the fence is properly aligned.
1.The rip fence must be parallel witht he saw blade and miter gauge grooves. Clean any debris off the fence guide bars. Move fence untill it is along sidethe miter gage groove and lock it. It should be parallel to groove. If it is not:
a.Unlock fence.
b. Loosen the four hex screwes located to each side of the rip fence handle.
c. Place the blade of the combination square in the right miter gage groove as shown.
d. Slide the fence against the blade of the combination square.
e. Alternately tighten the hex head screws.
f. Recheck alignment.
g. Repeat steps as needed until rip fence is correctly aligned.
End quote
Good luck. Let me know if I can help
John
I have a RIGID TS3650. The following is from my owners emanual which used in settingup my TS.
Quote
Rip Fence Alignment Adjustment
WARNING: A misaligned fence can cause kickbacks and jams. To reduce the risk of injury, follow these instructions until the fence is properly aligned.
1.The rip fence must be parallel witht he saw blade and miter gauge grooves. Clean any debris off the fence guide bars. Move fence untill it is along sidethe miter gage groove and lock it. It should be parallel to groove. If it is not:
a.Unlock fence.
b. Loosen the four hex screwes located to each side of the rip fence handle.
c. Place the blade of the combination square in the right miter gage groove as shown.
d. Slide the fence against the blade of the combination square.
e. Alternately tighten the hex head screws.
f. Recheck alignment.
g. Repeat steps as needed until rip fence is correctly aligned.
End quote
Good luck. Let me know if I can help
John
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You guys are good at what you do. I am on the way to the shop to check and will report back soon. thanks:eusa_clap :eusa_danc ;-) :icon_thum :eusa_whis :eusa_pray :eusa_thin
Ok, from front to back the back is off by 1/16th but the head of the screws are not phillips, what are they? Trying to figure out how to loosen them. Lorraine
Found the bit that goes to the screw heads and made the adjustment. Also had to tighten the screw on the back end of the fence, it had loosened up also. Thanks for the help guys. I also save the manual. Now it is back to making sawdust. I need to finish this chest so I can make my router table. Have a great week-end. Lorraine
Lorraine,
Congratulations!! I've watched your thread from the beginning but wasn't able to help in that I'm not familiar with your fence. It's good that you learned how to make that adjustment for all of the previously stated reasons and it's something you will need to do again at some time in the future. A table saw is a joy to use when properly set up, but will always demand your attention. Be safe.
Roy
Congratulations!! I've watched your thread from the beginning but wasn't able to help in that I'm not familiar with your fence. It's good that you learned how to make that adjustment for all of the previously stated reasons and it's something you will need to do again at some time in the future. A table saw is a joy to use when properly set up, but will always demand your attention. Be safe.
Roy
Thanks Roy, as you have read the above you noticed all I would go through to prepare my boards. I look forward to going about things a little differently. We put a rip blade on the tablesaw last night and ripped a raw board, piece of cake. My next step is to prepare walnut boards for the drawer fronts of my chest. Time will tell as to how well it goes but I feel confident. I have a desk top that is ready for a breadboard to be attached. That is a new thing for me and I would like to do it alone instead of enlisting help from Larry, my mentor. Wish me luck. Thanks again to all for the help. Never to old to learn something new. Lorraine
Great news, Lorraine!
I think that you will find that once set up ok, you will be very pleased with how long the setup lasts with that fence! (Doesn't hurt to check it every now and again, though!) Now you will be turning out projects at lightning speed not having to go through all of that joinery work!
Good luck, stay safe and by all means, have fun!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Wayne
I think that you will find that once set up ok, you will be very pleased with how long the setup lasts with that fence! (Doesn't hurt to check it every now and again, though!) Now you will be turning out projects at lightning speed not having to go through all of that joinery work!
Good luck, stay safe and by all means, have fun!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Wayne
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