adjustable blade stabilizer

[riderkb]

I'm trying to find a product that I've seen, but I can't remember where or what it is called . . .

It looks like a blade stabilizer disk for a TS or RAS, but it has set-screws around the perimeter so that you can tweak the blade to run perfectly true. Sound familiar? I can't find it anywhere.

 

[junquecol]

Have you checked your blade to see if it actually has run out? If so, is it the blade, or the flange washer on the arbor? I remember seeing such an item as you are asking for, but it was for the wheels on a bench grinder.

 

[riderkb]

I can see roughly 0.050" runout on the outside edge of a 10" blade. It's a cheap blade that I haven't been very careful with, so it wouldn't be a surprize if all of the runout is due to the blade.

If the arbor has any runout it is small enough so that I'll need a dial indicator to see it. I don't know how to check for runout in the flange washer. It is separate from the arbor, so I guess I'd just check for runout on the blade near the arbor.

What do you all consider unacceptable runout?

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Keith, I've never seen an "adjustable" stabilizer for a TS. If you find one I suspect it will be fairly pricy. I use standard 5" steel stabilizers on my saw and don't have any problem w/ runout. You may want to try them, or a good quality full kerf blade, or both, before you go to the adjustable stabilizers.

Just a thought.

Bill

 

[junquecol]

Keith, with the saw UNPLUGgED, turn blade by hand and find spot with most run out. Mark this spot with a "Sharpie." Loosen arbor nut, and rotate blade so it's at a different position. Tighten arbor nut and again check for run out. If it's the same spot, them the blade is the cause.

 

[Don Alexander]

buy good blades = runout reducer #1

buy good blades = runout reducer #2

buy good blades = runout rdeucer # 3

see a pattern here? :gar-La;