Adding shadow line to a PC mitre saw

pop-pop

Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Some years ago, I bought a Porter Cable 3802L 12" compound mitre saw. Same saw was also badged as Delta. The dual lasers was one feature that I really liked. After a few years the laser power supply died. I tried batteries for a bit but finally paid about $50 for a replacement and now no parts are available. Later, the right side laser died.
IMG_3207.jpeg


After seeing on YT shadow lines being added to other saws, I got a LED flex lamp from Amazon and gave it a go. The laser power supply was in the handle and I first stripped that and the lasers the were under the shroud.
IMG_3209.jpeg


After removing the flex stuff from the lamp, the LED head was inserted (actually crammed) into the place where the the lasers were. Hot melt glue secured it and the original cover was put back.
IMG_3211.jpeg


Next was the wiring connections which were fed through the original switch hole. The power supply has a magnet on its base and a shiny metal disk and DS tape were supplied with the lamp.
IMG_3212.jpeg


Here is the shadow line and a partial kerf. Looks like it might work. Also, it's time to clean the blade.
IMG_3219.jpeg

IMG_3214.jpeg
 

bainin

New User
bainin
Really nice ! Having worked in the LED industry for a long time, one suggestion I would make which may help better resolve the shadow is to use
a single line of emitters, rather than multi row emitters (i think your amazon one has 3 rows) . The rows offset from the blade centerline create their own projection at a slight angle which produces 3 images on the wood which partially overlap. A single row emitter format may produce an even crisper (crispier?) shadow image, though yours already looks quite good :)

b
 

pop-pop

Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Really nice ! Having worked in the LED industry for a long time, one suggestion I would make which may help better resolve the shadow is to use
a single line of emitters, rather than multi row emitters (i think your amazon one has 3 rows) . The rows offset from the blade centerline create their own projection at a slight angle which produces 3 images on the wood which partially overlap. A single row emitter format may produce an even crisper (crispier?) shadow image, though yours already looks quite good :)

b
The line is not perfect but it is better than I expected. I think that I can see the tooth corners and even a single row might show them also?
 

pop-pop

Man with many vises
Corporate Member
The appearance of my shadow LED switch mounting was annoying me.
CC870F64-6712-4A4B-B75A-328F7E2A39E1.jpeg


Now the switch and wiring is covered by this walnut housing,
14E82F1D-A70F-4D82-9740-A22B086D021B.jpeg


Room to hide the wiring started like a bandsaw box.
47766A71-7256-47EA-B123-24B62E7B4759.jpeg


Channels were cut into four faces to hide the wiring.
900642AA-96CA-4785-87D6-DF90E64BD808.jpeg
 
Last edited:

pop-pop

Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Very nicely done!
Despite thinking it through and making a drawing, I managed to not “make it like the cartoon”.

I had intended for the switch to face the operator with a rounded top but screwed up by cutting the wire channels in the wrong faces. Sketchup would have been useful here but I haven’t learned it yet.
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top