Well I started a thread about a cherry and maple or cherry and walnut table and Jeremy sent along some questions about drawer construction. One of the drawers I encourage builders to consider is the cockbead drawer. If you think veneer is something you might like to learn to do, this drawer type is a nice add on for you.
The drawer can be built in a couple of ways but I favor the stacked/laminated technique that was common with German builders back in the 18th century.
Jeremy asked me about this drawer construction in another thread which was about a table so I thought rather than do a "thread departure" I would start a new thread for those that did not wander in to the other one.
Cockbeading allows the builder to include dramatic veneers on the drawer front. It also allows the builder to move along quickly when faced with lots of drawers like a desk project with lots of small drawers in the build. Unlike the one below with serpentine fronts that take forever to build, flat cockbeading was fast and good looking.
These are not cockbead drawers so I will get back to the explanation.
When I looked at the beads that Jeremy cut I realized he put too much effort into playing with his tablesaw. I looked on Youtube and found the reason immediately.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLCqYGyvzpg
This is another example of how confused you can get watching youtube.. especially if the person has video skills you tend to think they have woodworking skills? No this is not axiomatic.
The guy in this video is so attached to his tablesaw, he can't figure out how easy it would be to just get a handsaw and chisel and he could be done in half the time he spends doodling with the on off switch and lining up beads that don't fit the period or the piece he is building. They are just too FAT.
Cockbeading 101 Jeremy.
It starts out with a simple drawer front that is fit to the existing opening. These full dovetails will be covered with the next step. You don't have to chop half blind dovetails.
Take the drawer front and rip the face to make room for the bead. Cut the walnut substrate at the same setting on your TS
shorten the length of the face by 1/8" for the bead then glue to the base.
Make the bead with a handsaw and a miter jack.
Use a chisel if you really want to get it tight.
If the small pieces for the end grain are the same, use the good one to set the length and cut.
Forget the dust collection, ear muffs, goggles, and face mask.. just cut and trim with your handsaw. Done.
All you have to do really is learn to cut to a line and have confidence. Its like committing to learning your scales. Once that happens without thinking, you can play lots of jazz tunes by simply hitting a flat note in the scale at will. If you want to do this forget the power switch, consider your hands and put in some practice. Forget Lee Valley crutches, just practice a little and it will come.
Good Luck
The drawer can be built in a couple of ways but I favor the stacked/laminated technique that was common with German builders back in the 18th century.
Jeremy asked me about this drawer construction in another thread which was about a table so I thought rather than do a "thread departure" I would start a new thread for those that did not wander in to the other one.
Cockbeading allows the builder to include dramatic veneers on the drawer front. It also allows the builder to move along quickly when faced with lots of drawers like a desk project with lots of small drawers in the build. Unlike the one below with serpentine fronts that take forever to build, flat cockbeading was fast and good looking.
These are not cockbead drawers so I will get back to the explanation.
When I looked at the beads that Jeremy cut I realized he put too much effort into playing with his tablesaw. I looked on Youtube and found the reason immediately.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLCqYGyvzpg
This is another example of how confused you can get watching youtube.. especially if the person has video skills you tend to think they have woodworking skills? No this is not axiomatic.
The guy in this video is so attached to his tablesaw, he can't figure out how easy it would be to just get a handsaw and chisel and he could be done in half the time he spends doodling with the on off switch and lining up beads that don't fit the period or the piece he is building. They are just too FAT.
Cockbeading 101 Jeremy.
It starts out with a simple drawer front that is fit to the existing opening. These full dovetails will be covered with the next step. You don't have to chop half blind dovetails.
Take the drawer front and rip the face to make room for the bead. Cut the walnut substrate at the same setting on your TS
shorten the length of the face by 1/8" for the bead then glue to the base.
Make the bead with a handsaw and a miter jack.
Use a chisel if you really want to get it tight.
If the small pieces for the end grain are the same, use the good one to set the length and cut.
Forget the dust collection, ear muffs, goggles, and face mask.. just cut and trim with your handsaw. Done.
All you have to do really is learn to cut to a line and have confidence. Its like committing to learning your scales. Once that happens without thinking, you can play lots of jazz tunes by simply hitting a flat note in the scale at will. If you want to do this forget the power switch, consider your hands and put in some practice. Forget Lee Valley crutches, just practice a little and it will come.
Good Luck