#7 sweep with inside bevel

[Phil S]

I am hoping to gain some insights from our experts.
I have a new gouge with a # 7 sweep 30mm wide with the bevel on the inside of the sweep.
What is the best way to sharpen this ?

This is a Stubai violin carving chisel used to hollow out the inside of the top and bottom plates

 

[Mike Davis]

I use wood dowels with 3-M wet&dry abrasive paper glued with 3-M 77 spray adhesive. 220, 280, 320, 400, 600, etc. up to 2500 grit. Pull and twist as you slide across the edge.

 

[Phil S]

Does anybody know the radius of a #7 sweep ??

 

[Berta]

Quick google search gave me this:

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Posted April 14, 2004
Seth- I arrived at the following by very unscientific methods (sorry jm), but the EXACT curve or sweep is not critical anyway. You can calculate the diameter of a pipe (form) for a particular gouge as follows: Multiply the desired gouge width by: For 6 sweep by 1.857; For 7 sweep by 1.667; For 8 sweep by 1.143; For 9 sweep by 1.048; For 11 sweep by 1.000 Example: For a 12mm gouge with a 7 sweep, 12 x 1.667= 20.004mm diameter pipe form. Hope this helps. Ron.

 

[TENdriver]

Phil, I’m pulling from way back in my memory, but I always understood that sweeps weren’t standardized and that there are various designations depending on manufacturers, continental or English origin etc.

As for sharpening your new incannel gouge. Did it arrive sharpened and honed or are you doing the actual first sharpening?

I have a few slips that I have used, but I actually prefer variations of Mike’s method, though I have never used that course of grit. My favorite is old fashioned 3M crocus cloth used by engine rebuilders or charged wooden or leather strops formed to the specific sweep.

 

[Phil S]

Phil, I’m pulling from way back in my memory, but I always understood that sweeps weren’t standardized and that there are various designations depending on manufacturers, continental or English origin etc.

As for sharpening your new incannel gouge. Did it arrive sharpened and honed or are you doing the actual first sharpening?

I have a few slips that I have used, but I actually prefer variations of Mike’s method, though I have never used that course of grit. My favorite is old fashioned 3M crocus cloth used by engine rebuilders or charged wooden or leather strips formed to the specific sweep.

It did arrive ground to the right angle but not completely sharpened and certainly not honed. The back of the gouge, the outside curve is actually quite rough - needs a lot of work. I am disappointed in its condition but will keep it as I do not know another supplier

 

[Mike Davis]

Phil, I would use a compass to draw approximate circle, hold inside of chisel to edge of circle, adjust compass in or out as needed draw second circle, check again, continue until it fits perfectly. Then measure compass and double for the diameter. But if you are planning to use that as the dowel size for sharpeners forget it. You don’t need to match the diameter, just use something a little smaller.

As you twist, pull, and draw the sharpener across the channel it will sharpen the whole edge evenly.

Sounds like the outside needs more work, I would use a series of diamond stones to smooth the back of the chisel then hone on finest grits same as any chisel. You may want to carve grooves to match the outside of the chisel and glue in some sandpaper to make honing faster and more easily consistent.

 

[KenOfCary]

I use a dowel with sandpaper like Mike to sharpen the inside sweep gouges. I also have some slip stones of various diameters that are really useful for this purpose. I also have "The Wave" diamond from DMT which works quickly for various diameters inside and outside curves.

https://smile.amazon.com/DMT-WAV-Di...ond+sharpener&qid=1554899830&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They come in Fine and Extra Fine.

30 mm is a very wide gouge. I consider a 12 mm to be large. It would be good for lowering a large field such as the background of a carving.

 

[danmart77]

Phil
I use a tool somewhat like the one you are describing to remove wood from a chair seat blank when building windsor chairs. I am going to assume you will use this tool for "hogging" out large sections of wood. Maybe?

I use my WS with a 1000 or better plate to get the back flat. I take a dremel tool with fine bit to get all the ridges out of the inside bevel. Much the same as sharpening a travisher.

You have a lathe. Punch the sweep on a piece of wood and turn a "dowel" slightly smaller than the sweep. One has 600 paper glued on and the other has white compound on it.

I now just chuck the dowel (approximately 12") on the lathe and spin it while making chair seats. I can polish several tools with the compound. Quick and back to work.