32 mm eurostyle cabinetry

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Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
Anyone here doing 32mm eurostyle cabinetry?

Anyone doing it without lineboring equipment?

What systems are you using to learn?

Anyone interested in just chatting about it generally?
 
F

foamx

New User
Lawrence
Is be interested in learning about this style. It seems to be very flexible if done properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Skymaster

Skymaster

New User
Jack
Yes 32mm centers, 37mm inset from edges, hinges 3mm reveal, 5mm drilled holes. 5mm is used for shelf holes and hinges using special 5mm grub screws. Once fully into it it is a very very precise,easy system. I use parts that I like and combine with standard
 
Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
Skymaster said:
Yes 32mm centers, 37mm inset from edges, hinges 3mm reveal, 5mm drilled holes. 5mm is used for shelf holes and hinges using special 5mm grub screws. Once fully into it it is a very very precise,easy system. I use parts that I like and combine with standard
Click to expand...

Sounds like you might have done this a time or two..
 
AllanD

AllanD

Allan
Corporate Member
I have built cabinets using a hybrid approach. I have used the euro hinges but on a face frame. I will be needing to build a bunch of cabinets for my new shop and plan on using the 32mm system fully as it should speed things up. I bought Festool's LR32 kit as I already have their routers, etc. Found a good offer on ebay.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/lr32_tutorial.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhGczlKZLYQ

I also picked up a couple of Danny Proulx's books used off of Amazon.
 
Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
Nice, some days I wish I could afford Festool stuff. But I think I could get a used 13 spindle machine or even an entry level CNC for the cost of even my minimal required system in Festool. Maybe if I win the lottery, (or find a winning lottery ticket on the ground since I don't actually play the lottery) :D They are some nice tools though.
 
Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
If you plan on doing any amount of 32 mm work, the Kreg shelf pin jig is definitely NOT the correct tool for the job. To be fair, perhaps if I had 3 of them screwed together then maybe. But trying to leapfrog and do both sides of 2 end panels for a 768 mm upper cabinet took way too long, and way too many steps. It has been returned for refund.

Next try will be Rockler. Although, I may end up wither with the Woodhaven 800 mm jig, or building my own.
 
J

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I know nothing about it but looked at the links provided. It's interesting history and why 32mm became the industry standard for post-WWII rebuilding of European cabinets using mass production. Now we have IKEA flat boxes for assembly at the front door.

Ok, I'll be the devil's advocate and we can all have a good discussion about it.

1. Pros and cons of Euro-style construction versus traditional cabinet construction?

2. Melamine vs solid wood?

3. I can't justify the cost for Euro-style machinery (think Festool Mercedes) for a few one-off cabinets here and there?
 
Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
Jeff said:
I know nothing about it but looked at the links provided. It's interesting history and why 32mm became the industry standard for post-WWII rebuilding of European cabinets using mass production. Now we have IKEA flat boxes for assembly at the front door.

Ok, I'll be the devil's advocate and we can all have a good discussion about it.

1. Pros and cons of Euro-style construction versus traditional cabinet construction?
Click to expand...
The big one is ease of construction for making a whole bunch. You can have many interchangeable parts because of how all the hardware connects. For example if you want shelves now, but later change your mind drawer slides attach in the same holes and vise versa. Also, depending on the system they can be stackable so the whole system can be modular. Economy of space. The same size framed cabinet and frameless will allow more storage space in the frameless. This is because face frames are larger than the carcass they are attached to. This leaves a gap between cabinets. Also the overhang of the face frame leaves dead spots inside the cabinet, that are a bit more awkward to use efficiently. There are more, so I will let someone else pitch the finer points.
Jeff said:
2. Melamine vs solid wood?
Click to expand...
The system works well with any material. Historically, solid wood was a problem since it has all been blown up. So things like particle board could be made where plywood and solid wood was prohibitively expensive and probably had some serious lead time issues. One of the beauties of this system came with the confirmat screw system. Here is a screw that can be used, and removed and reused even in particle board. It could be used without glue and provide the same strength in a manufactured wood product as a glued dowel. Particle board is roughly 1/2 the price of lower end hardwood plywood and high pressure melamine laminates are somewhere in between. But with melamine, your cabinet is finished when it is made, add some edge banding and Bob's your Uncle you have a clean looking strong cabinet. Right now, I am working with Birch plywood, but will try some of the other stuff before all is said and done. Again, someone else can probably come up with much more than this.
Jeff said:
3. I can't justify the cost for Euro-style machinery (think Festool Mercedes) for a few one-off cabinets here and there?
Click to expand...
Yeah, Festool. and Lineborers and Panel Saws Oh my!. You can certainly do this system with the Festool Lr32 system. It works nice with their router and such, but it not necessary at all. For line boring I tried the Kreg jig, but found it too fiddly and does a max of 6 holes at a time as long as your can set your clamps in the right place. I just ordered the Rockler one that does 15 holes at a time and includes the self centering drill bit (and can take different ones for doing different hole options this is about $35. And Woodhaven has an 800mm one that I may buy regardless which does more holes than I might even want to put in a 768mm (~30") cabinet but it doesn't come with the drill bit. It costs $35 too and they have a shorter version that costs less. This one will also use a router and collar of you are of that inclination. So that takes care of the lineboring.

I took a couple pieces of 1/2" plywood and glued and bradnailed them together and ran my cheapie craftsman c3 5-1/2" finish saw on it to make a perfect track. Strike a line, clamp it down and once again, Fannie's your Auntie you got a panel cut to perfect size. I assume this is not a new trick here to anyone, but if it is... then you're welcome. There are plenty of internet/youtube and otherwise plans for this type of track saw, as well there is cool idea for a "mini" panel saw that could be scaled up to a full size one that is horizontal rather that vertical so the saw rides in a rail system over the work. Not to mention cross cut sleds and wide panel jigs for the table saw there you have it.

Edgebanders can be expensive too. However you can get self adhesive edge banding in all sorts of colors, finishes and wood varieties with clippers (~$30) specific rollers (~30) or just a J-roller or a seam roller ($17-$2.50) and a side stripper that trims the applied banding to width (~$20). I have some cheap iron on edgebanding and an old travel iron (that sucks for ironing clothing) that my daughter was throwing away since my wife bought her a wonderful Rowenta (that does iron clothing well). It cost me $0 and the Goodwill is full of them. They also sell a tool specific to this task at about ... you guessed it (~30)!!!

You can join your cabinetry however you like. But, in this case using confirmats is the beauty of the system. There is a special 3 step drill bit that can be had from the teens to nearly 100 for a fully carbide model. Once drilled 3 screws in each side top and bottom and your 304 mm (12") cabinet is together. No glue, no muss no fuss. And you don't have to hide pocket hole screws or use bisquits or dowels to attach your face frame... because there isn't one :)

If I missed anything please feel free to add it. Otherwise, please know that I am learning this too. I still haven't bought 'True32 Flow Manufacturing' by Bob Buckley which is supposed to be the 'Bible' of this system.... pun intended if you desire :)
 
Rwe2156

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Of all the systems of building, I think the 32mm is the best and most cost effective. I like the simplicity of the hinges and no face frame has the advantage of no center stile.

If I were doing a lot of cabinet work, I would definitely look at an edge banding machine.

I use a drilling jig. I think only a production shop could justify the cost of a line boring machine.

What systems are you using to learn?
Click to expand...
I learned everything from Danny Proulx's book.

For melamine I use Confirmat screws.

Woodworkers Hardware is my go to source for hardware.
 
Absinthe

Absinthe

New User
Abs
Rwe2156 said:
Of all the systems of building, I think the 32mm is the best and most cost effective. I like the simplicity of the hinges and no face frame has the advantage of no center stile.

If I were doing a lot of cabinet work, I would definitely look at an edge banding machine.

I use a drilling jig. I think only a production shop could justify the cost of a line boring machine.


I learned everything from Danny Proulx's book.

For melamine I use Confirmat screws.

Woodworkers Hardware is my go to source for hardware.
Click to expand...

Danny has several books, at least 3 cover cabinets in one day or another, which one? :)
 
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