$150 or $550?

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Pocket door frame system. Seems like the choice is the ubiquitous Johnson for $150, works OK but is for sure not high end, or the heavydutypocketdoorframe.com for $550 or so. Nicer, but really?

Any thing else you know of? Want smooth glide. I hate the ugly plastic lower guides, but slotting the door and a bit of L channel would seem like a slick install.
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
I went Johnson throughout on my recent build, (12 pocket doors). W/ the slow-close, I'm pleased. Didn't use the cheap plastic guides, but rather ran a kerf in the bottom side of the door w/ a router and used a small section of angle as a guide, (hidden). Beware that on a few of the "less expensive" doors, the bottom kerf got into the particle-board core a bit, but no problems there so-far, and hidden of course.

We have double pocket doors leading into the master bath, and I DID source some sweet hardware that was "clocked" via a chain and gears run above the header to close them in unison, (i.e. they slide in from opposite sides to meet each other), by only having to touch one of the doors if you were so inclined - but at ~$900+ for the hardware for that 1 door, closing them independently doesn't bother me that much, ha.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I saw their soft close kit, and I see they have ball bearing guides as an upgrade. How do you like the soft open/close? Not a nuisance? What you did on the guide is exactly what I was thinking. I guess one could even insert a HDPE strip to make it glide.

I have a 22 inch door into the master bath. Going for a 32. I used 2 of the BORG Johnson in my Jack and Jill, and they are OK, just not very high end. Thinking maybe a heavier door is all I really need. I saw they have "heavy duty" but can't see what is heavier. Studs?

Actually, we have closed the master door maybe twice in four years. Going through a lot of work to make the refurb "accessible" so we will never need it.

I did a double parallelogram cable system for a TV lift in my last house. Uprights and cables hidden behind the curtain made from thin-wall and plastic sheaves. I used a garage door opener in the attic so all that was visible was a thin cable from ceiling to valance. Thinking one could do a cable or belt based system in the header for a lot less than $900, but maybe chains and gears have a better chance of lasting 100 years.

Anyway, enlarging and moving the door is step one. Two will be to rip out the Jacuzzi. ( Anyone want a working Jacuzzi?) Then reframe for a soaking tub. After that it is all in, gut the bath, decide on the shower/floor system, and go for it. My problem is I can see obvious failure points for just about every floor system. Going to wait a little to see if hardwood comes down just a bit before I start on the vanities. $92 a sheet for 3/4 maple ply!
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
I do pocket doors a little differently, (mostly new construction installs). In my personal build - I designed all of the pocket doors to go in 6" walls. That way, I don't use the cheap studs that come w/ most kits, and simply install 2x4 studs "flat", (i.e. parallel to wall vs. perpendicular). That leaves a 2.5" gap for the door/ track, and makes the wall much stiffer in my experience. Sounds like you're renovating what you've got- so apples vs. watermelons as you're probably locked-in, but throwing it out there nonetheless.

For what it's worth, w/ the install as described above, I really like w/ the soft open/ close. I have 2 boys, (6 and 10), so it saves a lot of slamming doors.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I might be able to lose a couple of inches as I have to box something out to fit a 60 inch tub in the 63 inch alcove. Opposite wall, but worth a thought.
THis is sort of the layout I am thinking about.
img003.jpg
 

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