1/2" bow in wall

[Matt Schnurbusch]

I am nearing the end of a laundry room makeover for my SIL, and right at the last of it I ran into an issue. She wants white counter tops installed for the folding area. I measured the length and had them fabricated. What I failed to take into account was the drastic bow in the long wall. So I am looking for options that I may not have thought of.

On the left end of the long counter section the counter is stuck out +/- 1/2", but is snug on the right. As near as I can tell I only have a couple of options...

Scribe the back edge of the back splash to get a better fit.
Scrap this counter top all together and have another fabricated without a back splash.

Here are a few pics so you can see what I am dealing with.

View image in gallery

View image in gallery
​

View image in gallery

View image in gallery

 

[FredP]

or you can cut out some of the paneling to allow the splash to go back. ordering new tops with separate splashes would be easiest but not as cost effective. straitening the wall could lead to a whole host of other problems......
You could also cut the length of the left top on the square end to make the miters match and build a small shelf on top of the splash to hide the gap. sorry.... no magic bullets here.
if you scribe the splash what is the front overhang going to look like?

 

[Bigdog72]

Can the paneling be removed? If so, build up behind the paneling. Since there doesn't appear to be enough beef to scribe the top to the wall a strip would need to be added and painted/stained to match paneling or countertop. But YMMV! :banana:

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

Can the paneling be removed? If so, build up behind the paneling. Since there doesn't appear to be enough beef to scribe the top to the wall a strip would need to be added and painted/stained to match paneling or countertop. But YMMV! :banana:

That might be a possibility. It will depend slightly on where the seams in the paneling are. I'll look into that one.

 

[Tarhead]

She definitely needs a cabinet in that corner :rotflm:

How about tapering the section of the backsplash under the window? It looks like it is going to be a close fit height wise between the top of the backsplash and the bottom of the window trim and wouldn't show unless you look for it. You could take up the majority of the gap this way and then run a piece of tapered cove molding on top of the whole length of backsplash to hide the rest of the gap.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

How about setting the counter top in place with as much front overhang as makes sense. Then, put two long boards together in a L-shape. Scribe the back of the L-shape to the wall and let the front part sit over the back edge of the counter top. This will provide a ledge, or even a small shelf.

 

[Dudelive]

or you can cut out some of the paneling to allow the splash to go back. ordering new tops with separate splashes would be easiest but not as cost effective. straitening the wall could lead to a whole host of other problems......
You could also cut the length of the left top on the square end to make the miters match and build a small shelf on top of the splash to hide the gap. sorry.... no magic bullets here.
if you scribe the splash what is the front overhang going to look like?

I would do as FredP suggest above. Just be sure the miter is aligned correctly. You could build a small shelf all the way around in the corner and it would hide the molding you use to cover the gap with and also be useful for small things to set on.

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

Just got a call from my brother. He decided that he can use the counter top in his office space (another project). I am now going to build a whole new counter top for the laundry room from melamine, with an oak (probably) edge band to match the desk top that I built for them in the same room. Pics of the whole project to follow upon completion.

I can scribe the melamine to the wall, and probably add a piece of trim, probably oak as wall to the wall edge to make it match the desk.

Thanks for all of the input. I guess I'll call this a lesson learned, and not measure up for a counter tops without a 6' level along the wall to check for bows.

 

[Dragon]

Looks like whoever built the house to start with failed to crown the studs before nailing them in place.

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

Looks like whoever built the house to start with failed to crown the studs before nailing them in place.

No argument there, but I would guess the warranty expired about 30 years ago.

 

[James Davis]

I don't think I would use melamine for a counter top. I would be afraid that the coating would wear off too soon. It is not as tough as it might seem. I would however build a counter top and cover it with PLam. put an oak edge on the top and then cover it with laminate then rout an edge profile through both the laminate and the top of the trim. that way you do not have a gap between the edging nd the top. Then if you are not comfortable building a back splash you can always use a piece of oak as the back splash. .02

James

 

[Skymaster]

+3 on Melamine NOT good for tops Use full thick Laminate. BE VERY CAREFUL with overhang dimension! Make very very sure you start out wide enuf so after scribing you have the right dimension left. If you have any questions on how etc just PM me and I will give ya all the help I can:
First and foremost, DO NOT LAMINATE ANYTHING untill you have it cut,scribed,fitted.
Jack

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

I will double check the intended use of this area, but my understanding is that it is to be used simply for folding clothes and such. If that really is the case I don't see how melamine could wear out under the "abuse" of a poly-cotton blend.

If they are going to use it for other stuff, then I agree a thicker laminate is required. Can I get that at the BORG, or will I have to go back to Web-Don or someplace similar? Also, could I use MDF as the substrate or should I stick with particle board?

 

[Herebrooks]

I'd rip off the long piece's backsplash which would let you align the mitre, and rebuild the backsplash with white laminate. You could also get out the car jack(as I've done a few times) and push the wall out until you get the mitre glued and clamped. There really is not that much pressure keeping that wall bowed.
Bill

 

[DaveD]

I'd just hog out the back of the backsplash part. Even though you have 1/2" on the one side that really translates to 1/4" in the middle.

Now if it was the kitchen I'd redo the counter top without a backsplash and maybe scribe it to the wall. Scribing the underlayment first before gluing on the laminate. Then route the laminate to match.

Or if you could tweak the laminate top to minimize the gap then the separate backsplash would hide any inconsistencies.

 

[James Davis]

I will double check the intended use of this area, but my understanding is that it is to be used simply for folding clothes and such. If that really is the case I don't see how melamine could wear out under the "abuse" of a poly-cotton blend.

If they are going to use it for other stuff, then I agree a thicker laminate is required. Can I get that at the BORG, or will I have to go back to Web-Don or someplace similar? Also, could I use MDF as the substrate or should I stick with particle board?

The poly-cotton blend may take a few years to wear through but the laundry basket will not take as long. Also, if the melamine gets wet there is the possibility that it will swell. I don't see why the MDF wouldn't work except that it is more expensive than the particle board. Be sure to rip strips to double up the thickness of the top to bring it to the right height. You can buy 4x8 sheets of laminate at the borgs but do not try to get away with using the spray on contact adhesive that they sell there. It will not hold up. I do not like the water based adhesives that are out there, they may work well but the stinking stuff from years gone by still stick it best.

If there is only a 1/2" gap at the end there is no reason to scribe against the wall just use a loose back splash and adhere that to the wall and the gap should be taken care of. Be sure to take the time to fit the joint well and do not try to make a miter joint in the field applied laminate. Just a butt joint around the corner a ways.

HTH,
James

 

[James Davis]

After looking a the pictures there may not be a need for a joint just fit the tops and fasten them in place and then stick the laminate in place.

James

 

[Matt Schnurbusch]

A 4'x8' sheet will cover the area. The whole area is less than 4x8.