limits of a 14" BS

[Keye]

I am starting to wonder if I am expecting to much from my Delta 14" BS. Bought it around 1994. I have had less trouble building a complete bedroom furniture set than what I am doing now.

I am laminating cherry boards to a rough size of 8" X 12". I am making the larger Ventura BS boxes. I have yet to make one I am satisfied with.

I have made numerous fixes and upgrades including, all new bearings, new spring, new tracking arm, new tires, twistlock belt, anti vibration pads, Carter Stabilizer, several different brands and types of blades, calibrated blade to table top, pulleys and wheels are co-planar,.......sure I have left something out.

Received great advice from members of this site.

I have not changed motor out for higher HP and rpm's. Would someone who knows more than me tell me if this would help.

Existing motor is 1HP, 1725 rpm

 

[marinosr]

um what's the problem?

 

[Keye]

um what's the problem?

I just knew someone would ask this question but not the first post. Latest problem is the stabilizer bearing started screaming. Carter says the blade tension is to tight. Loosen the tension and the blade has a mind of its own but the screaming stops. The cut goes from smooth to rough and back in the same cut. Even with proper tension and sharp blade the blade will make a sudden move off the intended line. Sometimes when I finish a cut I can see the blade has flexed left/right at the bottom of the cut (close to the table. This is impossible to see until you come out the end of the cut. The most irritating issue is the overall rough cut which requires so much sanding things just end up looking like crap.The blade I am using is a 105" X 3/16 X 7TPI, have also used 10TPI and 12TPI. I do have some burning but I have never used cherry for anything where I did not have some burning.

 

[marinosr]

Yeah it is typical to specify what you need help with when asking for help.

Are you saying that you're cutting through a thickness of 8"? I dont think any 3/16" blade will have deep enough gullets to do that unless you move at an absolutely glacial pace. So an issue with the blade, not the saw. Clogged gullets = wandering cut, deflection.

Changing the motor HP will do nothing... no 3/16" blade can remove enough material to fully develop 1hp of power, even if it is 12" thick.

 

[Henry W]

As Richard suggests, matching blade size and the TPI to the cut you are making is key with a BS.

That said, I keep same blade on there all the time - 3TPI. But I have a very LOW level of expectation for the cut quality I get on my BS (a 14" jet, blue vintage), and I would not trust my BS to deliver anything like a reliable re-saw cut in anything.... I doubt I could successfully make a BS box. I guess even with my 3TPI blade I get wandering and other issues with a re-saw type cut on a thicker piece.

So can't diagnose any specific issue, although I likely have all of them too. Watching for answers here.

 

[mquan01]

use a 3 tpi blade

 

[cyclopentadiene]

This sounds like an opportunity for all of us to see a review of the new Pegasus band saw!

it looks like a great piece of equipment and blade combination for this type work

 

[sandfarm]

Do you have the riser on your BS? With a riser the blade length is 105", I think.
I have a 3/4" inch blade if anyone needs it for light resawing.
I'm presently using a 2" wide blade for resawing on 24" BS.

Joe

 

[Phil S]

Here is my guess. I am assuming you are using a 3/16 blade to make the curves in the bandsaw box. I also assume you are using the only the Carter stabilizer bearing (with the groove) with no side guide bearings. I have the same setup on my 10" BS.
Back off the stabilizer bearing and make sure the blade is tracking correctly. Then increase the tension tight - very tight. Now bring the bearing up so that it is in alignment with the blade and just behind it.
Hope that works

 

[Keye]

Yeah it is typical to specify what you need help with when asking for help.

Are you saying that you're cutting through a thickness of 8"? I dont think any 3/16" blade will have deep enough gullets to do that unless you move at an absolutely glacial pace. So an issue with the blade, not the saw. Clogged gullets = wandering cut, deflection.

Changing the motor HP will do nothing... no 3/16" blade can remove enough material to fully develop 1hp of power, even if it is 12" thick.

I gave up woodworking about 20 years ago. When I decided to start back I new I did not want to return to furniture making. To much work for an old man. Several years ago I saw an article about a national art show in Australia. The winning work was a BS box. This is what lead me to trying my hand at BS boxes. I have about decided making furniture is easier.

When I started looking for resource material I was lead to a book by L K Ventura. A number of folks on this site recommended her book. The reason I am using a 3/16" blade is because she states the only blade she uses is a 3/16" 10 tpi blade. I am making boxes from plans in her book. I have read other material which supports this blade. I have some cuts as smooth as glass but to many which are not. You can not cut some of the required radius's with a wider blade.

Rougher cuts mean way to much sanding and sloppy fits which look awful.

Some of the issues you bring up are some of the same ones I have brought up. You are correct about slow.

I started thinking about chain saws. Why do some 16" chain saws cut better than other 16" saws. The main reasons are higher rpm, torque and hp. This is why I started thinking along he same lines for the BS. I though about changing the pulleys to increase rpm. If I remember the formula correctly this would reduce torque unless the motor HP is increased.

For those not familiar withe the Carter stabilizer it replaces the upper and lower bearings and guides.

While checking on the blade Ventura uses, just to be sure, I noticed for the first time she uses standard top and lower bearings and guides. Her book is from 2000. Do not know if the Carter stabilizer was available then and would she have used it. Makes me wonder if the additional support is needed for boxes this large made with hardwood. I am also going to look for a way to contact Ventura and ask her. I am also going to ask Carter.

 

[golfdad]

Why3/16......are you cutting lots of curves? I use a Woodslicer ( got that tip from Bill Clemons) 1/2 in. 3tpi on a 105” blade. A couple of passes with some 150 grit and you can stain the piece.

 

[Keye]

Why3/16......are you cutting lots of curves? I use a Woodslicer ( got that tip from Bill Clemons) 1/2 in. 3tpi on a 105” blade. A couple of passes with some 150 grit and you can stain the piece.

I am cutting curves that even 1/4" blade can not cut. To much sanding and the fits end up really sloppy.